synovex h to test base conversion

Discussion in 'Steroid Homebrew' started by whitegato777, Sep 7, 2011.

  1. whitegato777

    whitegato777 Member

    THE SAME CAN BE DONE WITH FINAPLIX-H TO MAKE TRENBOLONE BASE


    Ok guys, this is a simple and easy way to convert Synovex-H to get test base, which can be used in a transdermal application. You will yield anywhere from 12-20g test base from this, depending upon how careful you are with this process. This was developed by Chemo and I got much help from Wardog and Bobo. There are kits out there to do this for test prop inject, but if you want a transdermal or just TNE for whatever reason this is the way to go.

    Materials needed:

    1. 1 box Synovex-H
    2. 2 bottles Heet (available everywhere for your car), around $2-3
    3. 1 Bottle Red Devil Lye (Available at grocery stores, Walmart, Hardware store), around $5
    4. Glass coffee pot and bucket(s) or other containers
    5. Dust masks and/or coffee filters
    6. Pill crusher if desired (available at any drug store), around $5

    Ok, the how and why(s) of it:

    Synovex H is a cattle implant that contains testosterone propionate and estradiol. We are going to remove the estradiol and strip away the propionate ester to end with test base! Ok, on to the conversion:

    1. Crush all the syno pellets and place them in the glass coffee pot or bucket and fill with the 2 bottles of Heet. I used a cheap pill crusher I found at a local drug store, made it real quick and easy. If you don't crush them,they simply take much longer to dissolve. Let the pellets dissolve until the only thing left is the white filler which should settle to the bottom. It wll look like a hit cloudy substance when stirred, no granular particles. With crushed pellets this could be only a few hours.

    2. Next filter out the filler materials from the Heet solution. I suggest you get a small funnel like used for adding oil to your car, and place a dust mask in it and filter away. Set that aside and move on to playing with lye, chemical burns are fun! I'm kidding, but be careful you big idiot!<!--emo&--><!--endemo-->

    3. Next you need to add saturated sodium hydroxide (Red Devil Lye). This will remove the esters and make the estradiol water soluble. To get saturated sodium hydroxide you need to get a small, thick glass container and do this step in a cold water bath. Start by putting about 2 ounces (or 1/4 cup) of water in the glass, and slowly add the lye a tablespoon or so at a time. IT WILL GET VERY HOT, hence the cold water bath. You will notice the lye dissolve in the water quickly, just keep slowly adding lye until it doesn't dissolve anymore (remains powder or crystals), then add just a little more water. This is "saturated" sodium hydroxide. Add this to the Heet mix, stir it up, and let it sit for at least a day.

    4. Next we will add water to make the test base precipitate out into powder or crystals. There are 2 ways of doing this:
    A. Add about a 1/2 gallon of water to the mix, stir it up and the test powder will form. If you do this your filtering will be much more time consuming, but it does work fine.

    B. "The Wardog Way" This is the more efficient way of getting test base, especially time-wise. Get a paper or plastic sup or container, something that will hold 1/2 gallon or you'll have to keep filling it up. I used a milk jug. Your mix should be in the coffee pot, so it probably won't hold a 1/2 gallon of water, so pour it in a bucket. Get some cardboard and cut a hole in it in the center, and place over the bucket. You are going to poke a tiny little hole (with a needle, I mean tiny damnit!) in the bottom of the plastic jug or cup and let the 1/2 gallon of water slowly drip into the heet and lye mix. This will form test crystals, big nice pretty crystals that are easy to filter!

    5. Once the water has been added and test powder or crystals formed, now just filter out and rinse the test. I tried using a dust mask for the powder, won't work, too damn slow. A coffee filter will do fine, or if you have crystals a permanent coffee filter (usually has a reinforced mesh, available at Walmart or grocery store) is better. With test powder expect some time invested in filtering it, with crystals it's done in minutes. Once you are done, rinse the test repeatedly to make sure the excess hydroxide is off completely, no reason to cycle Red Devil! Now let it dry overnight or give it a bake in the oven at a VERY LOW temp. My oven goes as low as 170, I used that and let it bake to speed up the drying process, but don't burn it you fool! Now chop it up with a razor like Scarface and there you have test base!!
     
  2. whitegato777

    whitegato777 Member

    does anybody know a better method or one to get test prop without the solubalizer?
     
  3. whatever.

    whatever. Junior Member

    Same way, just 1 hour not 1 day before precipitation...
     
  4. whatever.

    whatever. Junior Member

    Also, you don't need anywhere near that much caustic... I wanna say I used 125mg in 5ml water.
     
  5. bigrobbie

    bigrobbie Member

    Is synovex available again?
     
  6. whitegato777

    whitegato777 Member

    Did it ever go away?
     
  7. test90

    test90 Member

    Why dont you just get the powder save the trouble
     
  8. whitegato777

    whitegato777 Member

    Because my power supply got busted and the two who didnt gey busted arent srlling powders anymore. I rather have powder
     
  9. whitegato777

    whitegato777 Member

    Hey is thorus still reputable for powders?
     
  10. whitegato777

    whitegato777 Member

    Does anybody have a recipe for 100mgs per ml of test base using guaiacol?
     
  11. test90

    test90 Member

    If i was stuck could i use food or cosmetic grade grapeseed oil
     
  12. bigrobbie

    bigrobbie Member

    Sorry I'm late on this...Synovex was under manufacturer "back order" which resulted (as of about 3 months ago) synovex being very hard to find....anyone else have this issue?
     
  13. bdg77

    bdg77 Member

    last i heard about syno-h its back ordered until like march. of course you can always go with the equivalent product compound e-h. I'm going out of my mind trying to figure out how to convert the compound into test prop. The site I used to go to for the s-type kit no longer carries any s-type anything at all. So now instead of paying too much money for a simple kit, I have to used my brain and figure it out. So I'm familiar with the dazed type kit which makes it real easy but may leave you with test base. So back to square one you need solvent(heet) no getting around that. Now this method says don't add e-solubilizer or NaOH. Instead they say to wash and crystalize it, not once but 4 times! Author says after that there will only be trace amounts of e left. And if your still worried about the e hold off on adding the B.A. cause estrodiol has super low solubility in oil and the end whatman filtration would take care of any remnants. This sounds great to me no NaOH to strip off any prop but disolving, washing, drying 4 freaking times might just be more than one could handle. I'd like to hear some opinions on this screw the estro solubilizer. Getting pure NaOH is no prob but I don't know how much to add. I believe it was a vial that must have had maybe a teaspoon tops. And that went into a jar with one bottle of heet and 5 carts if memory serves. And then there was a little vial of clear liquid that got added to a gal of distilled h20 which I'm not sure what it was. But i think I have one of those vials labeled E siting around, which maybe could come in clutch right now. I apologized for rambling on. This is hurting my head. Gotta figure this out. Got the fina down like nothing but when it somes to syno still a rookie. Help any syno masters!
     
  14. sarcoplasm

    sarcoplasm Junior Member

    Well well well
    I went through this same dillemma a while back and looked long and hard to solve this mystery. I came up with a reliable formula a chemist had posted up on another forum. To sum it up if you added .85 grams of NaOH(Thats POINT Eight Five) TO 50 mls of DISTILLED water you would have created enough estro solubilizer for one BOX of synovex (10 carts). You would use this estro-sol and follow the syno coversion on basskillers site to the letter and you will be sucessful. Too much NaOH (supersaturated solution) will strip the prop ester even if left for an hour ) I have seen sugested amounts of NaOH ranging from .150 mgs for a box of syno to 1.5 gram. The .85 works as well . Good Luck

    .
     
  15. bdg77

    bdg77 Member

    Yeah that sounds about right, thanks. Probably better to error on the side of less rather than more. Last time had a great run. Used the dazed kit. Took my time, just super meticulous and anal about everything. Watched the video couple times first. It was just so much better than my first time, when the stuff gelled up and I had a left over vial labeled E cause I didn't know what it was for. The yield was better in quality and quantity last time. Got plenty of pure NaOH but this time I don't think I'm going to use it. So if you're familiar with the dazed s-type kit, it comes with a vial of liquid you're supposed to add to a gal of distilled h20 that you chill and use to wash. Any idea what that might be? It also comes with a small vial of white powder which I believe is pulverized NaOH. Reason I ask about the liquid is that I have one left over from the first time when it didn't go so well.
     
  16. sarcoplasm

    sarcoplasm Junior Member

    Any s-kit that you obtain will have or may have 3 vials with fluid in them. 1)vial containing methanol to dissolve pellets. 2) vial with oil for finished powder 3) vial with estrosolubilizer (smallest bottle). Some kits do not have the dissolving fluid (vial1) and you purchase your own methanol . Sounds to me that the vial you have is the estrosolubilizer. I would proceed with your own NaOH and put together your own kit.
     
  17. bdg77

    bdg77 Member

    Yeah, the kit I got had methanol (heet). Personally I think they should just leave that out of the kit for a couple reasons, space, weight, inflated price and I don't think it's cool to ship it around without some special label due to it's flammablility. So there's disolving solution. At least they don't make you buy distilled water. It'd probably come out to $20 a gal after shipping and handling. So the way this one went was to dump a 2 or 3 cc vial of clear liquid into a gal of distilled h20 and chill it in fridge for later. Then the other little mini vial contained a white powder. This was to be added to the s-heet mix. Made a little fizz like an acid hitting a base. Then you go around your merry way of dripping super cold distilled h20, even make distilled ice cubes. So after the d_water on the d-water rocks turns the solution into pretty needle like crystals. You proceed to wash them untill the distilled h20 is gone. The BA, BB and oil are premixed if memory serves. So after you rinse the crystals you combine with oil, try your darnedest to get it throught 3 whatmans. You could end up with some high quality incense oil. But what and MORE importantly what effect did the little bottle labeled E added to the distilled h20 DO!!! I've probably read at least 10 variations of this process, many discrepancies which is typical. I think thats important read as many processes as you can find and piece together one that makes the most sense. Unless you're a bonehead, then just at least try to follow the instructions in the right order.
     
  18. sarcoplasm

    sarcoplasm Junior Member

    Hmmm. Hard to say what the little bottle added to the h2 0 did in your original kit but ALL syno conversions (except for the re-crystallization method) use methanol, soduim hydroxide, and distilled water, and they all are similar, but the key is the right amound of NaOH, and it must sit for ONE HOUR ONLY!
     
  19. bdg77

    bdg77 Member

    True that, timing is critical at that stage. To me having that prop ester intact is the most critical. Test suspension's half life is so friggin short I can't see it being used practically as the main test of a cycle. Seems like more of a prework out novelty. Even prop is too quick for my liking but beggers can't be choosers. And I have to say it is far easier to control your levels and it's nice to be able to feel something the next day. It's easy to get in too deep with the long ones like enathate say. It just builds and builds and if hit the rage point its going to take a little while to drop. With enanthate it, as much as I love it with the 7-12 doses it takes a couple weeks to kick in and just when your getting the results you want its time to stop. Oh maybe one day I'll accually have a cycle of preference rather than circumstance which always seems to be maybe half the quantity and # of anabolics I want. Back to reality, I think I mentioned before a method suggested by someone who writes kick ass posts on this subject and in general. The gist is you don't really have to worry about the estro as much as you think. He advocates disovling in heet and rinsing 4 times. To me this is way too much work I had great results with two very thorough rinsings. Then adding the prop to warm oil, filter that, add the BB and/or BA last. Reason being that the estro isn't very soluble in oil so the filter will catch it. But he says he doesn't even do that anymore cause the estro is gone already. I may try a third rinse this time but it's already been going for a week now and I want it done. Oh and BTW I am prone to gyno. So what I'm saying is that I feel confident that you can get rid of the estro without a solubilizer and end up with more potent, pure result.
     
  20. bdg77

    bdg77 Member

    I finally figured out what the heck the mystery ingredient was that was in my s-type kit. Well not the exact chemical but close enough. The kit had a small 2-3ml vial of clear liquid that you were supposed to add to a gal. of chilled distilled h20 and put back in the fridge, first thing. Ok , I've heard people suggest it was disolved NaOH, which is a good guess. But the kit also contained a similar sized vial of white powder which i'm sure was the sodium hydroxide. It wouldn't make sense to put it in the water. It goes in the heet an hour b4 the h20. So alway I thought and thought about it. I came to the conclusion that it was probably a very mild acid, like acetic or citric or just something to neutralize any unreacted NaOH. I was close but wrong. What the e-solubilizer does is takes the estrodiol benzoate and knocks off the benzoate leaving you with just estrodiol. Now this is much, much easier to rinse out. It makes it somewhat soluble in water and more so in methanol. But while it's estrodiol benzoate it has almost indentical solubilty as the TP except maybe slightly soluble in methanol. So anyways back to what the distilled h20 additive was. It was something to make the water alkaline which aids in disolving the plain estrodiol. For some reason alkalinity disolves the estrodiol better, not estrodiol benzoate. You still need to react it with NaOH (strong base) to change it to estrodiol without the benzoate on it. So it seems they did their homework to bad they don't carry s-type kits anymore, or at least last time I checked.