Vacuum pump question .

Mechanics

New Member
First off I what to that everyone in advance for any advice given.
And with being said I am new to home brewing . and I am sure I a lot of question and this entire section has been fun to read . But I was curious if the higher CFM vacuum pump is always better ?
Or can there be to much vacuum ?
And reason for the question is I am a mechanic and have A/c vacuum pumps all over my shop . but I have a brand new 6 vacuum pump . and it looks just like some pumps I've seen.

Or are they different?

Again thank for the help .
 
First off I what to that everyone in advance for any advice given.
And with being said I am new to home brewing . and I am sure I a lot of question and this entire section has been fun to read . But I was curious if the higher CFM vacuum pump is always better ?
Or can there be to much vacuum ?
And reason for the question is I am a mechanic and have A/c vacuum pumps all over my shop . but I have a brand new 6 vacuum pump . and it looks just like some pumps I've seen.

Or are they different?

Again thank for the help .
both pumps will work fine provided you use something like this

20160525144552.jpg

it:

1 works as a vacuum reservoir/buffer so you'll get ample warning if vacuum becomes too much

2 smooths out pump pulses, so it's easier on filter membranes

3 catches the little lubricating oil that the pump may throw through the hose.

So if you're worried about excessive vacuum you may add a vacuum gauge to the vacuum canister or hose. Problem solved.
 
I use a Mitty Vac. It's found in auto parts places for bleeding brakes and clutches. 35 bucks ish. Works fine. Plus it's cheap. If you're doing 500ml maybe not? But I've only done like 50-100ml at a time and it works fine. Just a fyi
 
I use a Mitty Vac. It's found in auto parts places for bleeding brakes and clutches. 35 bucks ish. Works fine. Plus it's cheap. If you're doing 500ml maybe not? But I've only done like 50-100ml at a time and it works fine. Just a fyi
Yeah I know what your talking abt . when I seen it at Napa I thought abt possible trying to.
 
both pumps will work fine provided you use something like this

20160525144552.jpg

it:

1 works as a vacuum reservoir/buffer so you'll get ample warning if vacuum becomes too much

2 smooths out pump pulses, so it's easier on filter membranes

3 catches the little lubricating oil that the pump may throw through the hose.

So if you're worried about excessive vacuum you may add a vacuum gauge to the vacuum canister or hose. Problem solved.

Thanks , and I was curious about the filtering system on that pic. What kind is that . And I am assuming that is for a bigger lab . or someone producing a lot of gear .
Is that correct?
Cause I would like to filter twice .
What is the best way to filter twice ?
 
I've only brewed 400ml recently. The first 100 was syringe filter. And I immediately bought bottle top filters and a pump. Cause that sucked with syringe.

When I was brewing my EQ I had it real warm and used a 60cc syringe without a needle and filtered into another clean beaker with a .45 syringe filter (without the needle). Warmed it back up then poured it into my whatman .2 bottle top. It seemed to filter through the bottle top better that way.
 
Put a tee in the line and a valve and then put a gauge near your filter unit so you can see how much vacuum you are getting there. Crack the valve so that you are sucking from the filter unit and the valve is sucking air reducing the vacuum on the filter unit. Or run 2 or 3 filter units at once if the pump is stout enough.
 
Yes very good idea about the pan .
What type of filters are those?
And I think I want to filter at least two times .

I was gonna put a pressure relief valve in my vacuum tank , the same theory as the vacuum ball on the old cruise control on the older fords,it controls the speed buy vacuum . and the faster u go the relief valve closes more causing more vacuum . in my vacuum setup I am gonna put my gauge on the just before my filters and a relief valve connected to my gauge with brass or plastic fittings ( whatever I already have) . but my filtering process is what I need to figure out so I can move forth with my set up . I'll try and remember to take pics as I build it . but I would like to get as system that filters well with ease and can handle any amount big or small. I would rather spend the money on my sterilization and filtering system instead in a hospital getting a infection fixed . not to mention my good friends will be using as well. And brewing has always been something I wanted to do . more so a hobby than money .
 
Yes very good idea about the pan .
What type of filters are those?
And I think I want to filter at least two times .

I was gonna put a pressure relief valve in my vacuum tank , the same theory as the vacuum ball on the old cruise control on the older fords,it controls the speed buy vacuum . and the faster u go the relief valve closes more causing more vacuum . in my vacuum setup I am gonna put my gauge on the just before my filters and a relief valve connected to my gauge with brass or plastic fittings ( whatever I already have) . but my filtering process is what I need to figure out so I can move forth with my set up . I'll try and remember to take pics as I build it . but I would like to get as system that filters well with ease and can handle any amount big or small. I would rather spend the money on my sterilization and filtering system instead in a hospital getting a infection fixed . not to mention my good friends will be using as well. And brewing has always been something I wanted to do . more so a hobby than money .
You may want to start with caulk guns to push 60 ml syringe plunger to get used to brewing
just

1 use some rubber bands or duct tape to hold the vial to the syringe filters or caulk gun so the vial won't fall off the needle

2 make sure the syringes you find
2.1 fit the caulk gun (most do, no big problem here)
2.2 can fit a syringe filter at the tip, i.e. stay away from marinade or mechanic type syringes lol but true.

3 make sure you don't overfill vials
it's easy to keep on pushing and forgetting at first
 
If you plan on doing this for the long term you can get a case of 500ml fox autofil filters for around $100 or I believe @MedLabGear sells single fox autofils but I may be wrong. You can also get a buchner filter for less than $100 and 100 filters for less than $100
 
You may want to start with caulk guns to push 60 ml syringe plunger to get used to brewing
just

1 use some rubber bands or duct tape to hold the vial to the syringe filters or caulk gun so the vial won't fall off the needle

2 make sure the syringes you find
2.1 fit the caulk gun (most do, no big problem here)
2.2 can fit a syringe filter at the tip, i.e. stay away from marinade or mechanic type syringes lol but true.

3 make sure you don't overfill vials
it's easy to keep on pushing and forgetting at first
I think I am gonna take your advice and use the caulk gun method first and will be assembling my other filter system , so when comfortable I will use it .
 
If you plan on doing this for the long term you can get a case of 500ml fox autofil filters for around $100 or I believe @MedLabGear sells single fox autofils but I may be wrong. You can also get a buchner filter for less than $100 and 100 filters for less than $100

I'm going educate myself with info for this buncher filter .
 
When you use a caulk gun and 60ml syringe only put 40ml in the syringe that way it will fit in the caulking gun. Also tape around the caulking gun and syringe in order to keep the syringe steady
 
I have never made gear . but I have produce other things that require a little knowledge in chemistry and a make shift lab . so I am pretty confident that I can produce quality gear as longs as the raws are good .
 
When you use a caulk gun and 60ml syringe only put 40ml in the syringe that way it will fit in the caulking gun. Also tape around the caulking gun and syringe in order to keep the syringe steady
Thanks for the help .
I have read several threads that mention to secure syringe .
Is this a slow and painful process or as long as oil is warm it moves fairly quick?
 
I have never made gear . but I have produce other things that require a little knowledge in chemistry and a make shift lab . so I am pretty confident that I can produce quality gear as longs as the raws are good .
Its alot simplier than peeling batteries or scraping matchbooks.
 

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