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Gear heads rear differential

Logan44551

Logan44551

Member
So the rear end on my Chevy 1500 went out on Wednesday. Going to try rebuilding it tomorrow. I got the cover off and the pinion gear snapped in half. I got driveshaft disconnected and the pinion bolt off. Going to pull the axles and pull everything out tomorrow. I watched a couple videos and am a little nervous about getting all the gears lined up. One guy was saying the the existing shims should work if put back in the same order. Does this sound right to you guys?
Any advice from anyone with experience. I know it would be easier to swap a whole rear end from a junk yard. I don't have the time or the means to get one to my house Currently and need to get the truck running tomorrow.
Am I crazy for trying to achieve this on my own? Looking for insight or advice thanks guys.
 
Did my buddy's old Scottsdale forever ago and pre YouTube. Wasnt that bad, just took our time. Double and triple check your clearances.

But that was a full frame off, so we didn't have any real time table to keep.
 
Logan44551 said:
So the rear end on my Chevy 1500 went out on Wednesday. Going to try rebuilding it tomorrow. I got the cover off and the pinion gear snapped in half. I got driveshaft disconnected and the pinion bolt off. Going to pull the axles and pull everything out tomorrow. I watched a couple videos and am a little nervous about getting all the gears lined up. One guy was saying the the existing shims should work if put back in the same order. Does this sound right to you guys?
Any advice from anyone with experience. I know it would be easier to swap a whole rear end from a junk yard. I don't have the time or the means to get one to my house Currently and need to get the truck running tomorrow.
Am I crazy for trying to achieve this on my own? Looking for insight or advice thanks guys.
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I wouldnt do it. Most shops have someone who specializes in diffs and its work that benefits from experience. Makes sense to replace the ring and pinion together. Makes no sense to run a new pinion on old ring teeth. Should also replace the seals and prolly oughta pony up for the half shafts while your at it. Get the master install kit with the sleeves and the correct lube. Also a new cover. If u want you could also install a c clip elimator while your in there to help strengthen the semi float design. And this would be a good time to consider installing a locker or limited slip while its open. Should all be done the same time because an axle can last easily 200k under most circumstances and often times alot more.

Shim it wrong and youll be doing it twice. My advice is pay for the service. 1 axle should be about $1,000 installed and thats with labor and a locker/LS.
 
gr8whitetrukker said:
I wouldnt do it. Most shops have someone who specializes in diffs and its work that benefits from experience. Makes sense to replace the ring and pinion together. Makes no sense to run a new pinion on old ring teeth. Should also replace the seals and prolly oughta pony up for the half shafts while your at it. Get the master install kit with the sleeves and the correct lube. Also a new cover. If u want you could also install a c clip elimator while your in there to help strengthen the semi float design. And this would be a good time to consider installing a locker or limited slip while its open. Should all be done the same time because an axle can last easily 200k under most circumstances and often times alot more.

Shim it wrong and youll be doing it twice. My advice is pay for the service. 1 axle should be about $1,000 installed and thats with labor and a locker/LS.
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Yeah I gave it a go, holy nightmare. Ended up pulling the axle and am dropping it off at a rear end shop tomorrow. I learned a lot trying it, but it was definitely a little out of my level of expertise
 
Logan44551 said:
Yeah I gave it a go, holy nightmare. Ended up pulling the axle and am dropping it off at a rear end shop tomorrow. I learned a lot trying it, but it was definitely a little out of my level of expertise
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Sorry you couldn't get it done yourself but glad you got things sorted. Would you mind if I switched the topic of your thread to bad diesel fuel since you have Big Trukkers attention? I'm having hell with my diesel engine.
 
Oldschool said:
Sorry you couldn't get it done yourself but glad you got things sorted. Would you mind if I switched the topic of your thread to bad diesel fuel since you have Big Trukkers attention? I'm having hell with my diesel engine.
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Have at it. I'm actually surprised there is an automotive sticky. I feel like there should be
 
Oldschool said:
Sorry you couldn't get it done yourself but glad you got things sorted. Would you mind if I switched the topic of your thread to bad diesel fuel since you have Big Trukkers attention? I'm having hell with my diesel engine.
Click to expand...

Another guy to talk to is @Human_backhoe

I saw him pull apart a dual axle 100ft crane truck differential ... put it back together in 1 day.

Heqvy diesel mechanic and a hydraulics specialist, very few things the guy cant answer when it comes to diesels or heavy equipment.

Edit: He was drunk when he did it too lol
 
Logan44551 said:
Have at it. I'm actually surprised there is an automotive sticky. I feel like there should be
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Is it a 4x2 or 4x4?
Cuz now would def be the time to regear esp if its a 4x2 cuz its only one diff. One thing about half ton chevys is they use LOOOOOONG ass gear ratios from the factory robbing u of the power these vortecs really make. I ALWAYS prefer shorter gears vs longer ones in every truck application. They are a huge torque multiplier and well worth the upgrade. GM only does it for fuel reasons which oddly enough ends up being sacrificed as well. I had 3.20s in my Tahoe and upgraded to 4.10s and im tellin ya its night and day. Feels like a pitbull on a chain
 
Well I have a fuel problem. It's not water but some other substance. Slimy like snot. Weird thing is I've taken samples from my drag up tank and fuel is clean and good looking. Same with the overhead or storage tank that I fill my drag up tank from. The only place I can find the slime in is my trackhoe tank? It's a new machine basically. 4000 hours. Its ran fine and then all of a sudden boom. Separator,fuel filter full of this "snot". I've run equipment for a minute or two and never seen this. Any ideas? Thanks.
 
Oldschool said:
Well I have a fuel problem. It's not water but some other substance. Slimy like snot. Weird thing is I've taken samples from my drag up tank and fuel is clean and good looking. Same with the overhead or storage tank that I fill my drag up tank from. The only place I can find the slime in is my trackhoe tank? It's a new machine basically. 4000 hours. Its ran fine and then all of a sudden boom. Separator,fuel filter full of this "snot". I've run equipment for a minute or two and never seen this. Any ideas? Thanks.
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This actually looks like water. I have seen it a thousand times. Like white snot right?
 
Human_backhoe said:
This actually looks like water. I have seen it a thousand times. Like white snot right?
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It looks white in the pic because of the flash. It's more of a tan color. And the longer it sits sand like particles fall out. This fuel sample is actually cleaner than the first. Someone told me it is a bacteria that sometimes grows in diesel? Thanks alot for your help.
 
Oldschool said:
It looks white in the pic because of the flash. It's more of a tan color. And the longer it sits sand like particles fall out. This fuel sample is actually cleaner than the first. Someone told me it is a bacteria that sometimes grows in diesel? Thanks alot for your help.
Click to expand...

Yes bacteria can definitely change to color. The bacteria grows in the water. Bacteria doesn't grow in the fuel as it is a oil. Bacteria in watery is most common in the southern United States. I have even had it happen here In Canada. Not including trucks I probably have 10 pieces of equipment that have diesels. This is a constant battle for us. When I find water I change filters drain the water from bottom of a take and I can't remember the product but there are a few that will remove the water and condition the fuel.
 
Logan44551 said:
Yeah I gave it a go, holy nightmare. Ended up pulling the axle and am dropping it off at a rear end shop tomorrow. I learned a lot trying it, but it was definitely a little out of my level of expertise
Click to expand...

Damn, sorry about your luck. In some ways it's better off you didn't re use the shims. Made that mistake a few years back and paid for it haha.
 
Human_backhoe said:
Yes bacteria can definitely change to color. The bacteria grows in the water. Bacteria doesn't grow in the fuel as it is a oil. Bacteria in watery is most common in the southern United States. I have even had it happen here In Canada. Not including trucks I probably have 10 pieces of equipment that have diesels. This is a constant battle for us. When I find water I change filters drain the water from bottom of a take and I can't remember the product but there are a few that will remove the water and condition the fuel.
Click to expand...
We completely drained the tank, swapped filters and ran the machine for 5 hours and the contents of this water bottle was in the separator bowl. I added some stuff called Kill Em for the bacteria. I am in the south but also west and it is a very dry climate here. Where I am from in south Texas it happened regularly. Just seemed strange that it's only in the tank of the machine. Not storage or transfer tanks. Thanks again.
 
Logan44551 said:
Went with the truetrac absolutely loving it!
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Maitenaince free for a life time! Its whats commonly referred to as a "posi" rear end. Alot of folks think its a locker because it tends to leave dual rubber patches on the road but its not true. Just an awesome gravity operated limited slip. I run one in my front diff on my ford to aid in traction when in off camber situations on the trail. Traction goes to the wheel that isnt spinning instead of traction going to the wheel of least resistance, which will always be the wheel that is off the ground in a typical factory LS or open setup. A locker in the front tends to "push" too much making turning and applying power difficult in tight situations. This was a better trade off for me to go along with my detroit locker in the rear
 
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