Save your unusable raws Guaranteed.

[Thorshammer]

My man! Keep us posted! If you find some new tricks, please let us know

I might have missed it. Are you filtering the solvents and distilled or DI water your using to minimize bioburden in the finished

So for water, I strictly use this usp grade endotoxin free sterile water. Pretty cheap. And I hot filter all the solvents when the raws are mixed in with a 1micon glass pad and a 0.1 micron ptfe filter underneath.

Sterile Water – Ultra Pure Grade | UFC BIO

Sterile water - RNase/DNase/endotoxin free, used for irrigation and molecular biology

ufcbio.com

Positive charged filter run it down stream from a .1um and start with type1 DI water. Passes on my Charles daily PTS and LAL gel clot. Way cheaper than bottle pyrogen free water . I use way to much WFI to buy it.

 

[mongo5165]

Okay guys, I had about 3ml left of Dragon primo that was 200mg/ml. It made my crp go crazy, so I knew it had EO in it. Didn't plan on finishing the vial, so why not try to extract the raws from the finished injectable..

Crashed out primo crystals were pretty cool! Now I just have to filter them out and dry

Step 1: BA + EO Defat – Heptane Pulls the Junk

Ice bath the 3 mL brew in a small beaker.
Add 15 mL n-heptane → swirl → instant emulsion.

Science: Heptane (dielectric ~1.9) loves EO, BB, MCT — Primo solubility ~12–15 g/100 mL (even lower than hexane).

Add 3 mL ice-cold distilled H₂O → swirl gently.
Science: BA is 100 % water-soluble → jumps out. EO/BB stay in heptane.
Chill 5 min → bottom aqueous layer (BA + H₂O) separates.
Syringe out bottom → discard.
Repeat water pull 1× (another 3 mL H₂O).
Result: ~18 mL heptane layer = Primo + BB + EO + oil. BA gone.

Step 2: Primo → 50/50 IPA/H₂O (BB Stays in Heptane)

Transfer heptane layer to sep funnel

Pre-make 50/50 IPA/H₂O: 37.5 mL IPA + 37.5 mL H₂O → chill
Add 15 mL cold 50/50 IPA/H₂O to heptane layer.
Invert gently 25× (no shaking) → stand 10 min in freezer.

Science:
Primo-Enanthate → >40 g/100 mL in 50 % IPA.
BB → 0.05 g/100 mL in 50 % IPA → 99.9 % stays in heptane.
EO + MCT → insoluble in 50 % IPA → stay top.
Drain bottom IPA layer → Beaker #1.
Repeat 4 more times (5× total, 15 mL fresh 50/50 each).
Pulls 4–5 are nearly clear → you’re done.
Result: ~75 mL IPA layer = Primo
Heptane layer = BB + EO + oil (discard).

Step 3: Dry the IPA – MgSO₄ Kills Water
Combined all 5 IPA pulls (~75 mL).
Add 12 g anhydrous MgSO₄ in 3 g portions, swirling after each.
Science: 1 g MgSO₄ binds ~0.9 mL H₂O → 12 g dries ~37 mL water in the mix.
Swirl 10–15 min → dry sand texture (no clumps).
Filter out MgSO with Buchner funnel
Result: Water <0.1 %

Step 4: Crystallize – Reduce + Cold Heptane Crash
Fan-blow or low heat (<50 °C) the 70 mL IPA → reduce to ~1.5–2 mL.
Add 2 mL ice-cold n-heptane → instant snowstorm.
Chill 30 min in freezer.
Filter put crystals with 100 mesh nylon fabric over a bowel
Wash crystals with 2 × 2.5 mL ice-cold heptane.
Air-dry or vacuum dry crystals.

 

[Thorshammer]

Well tinkered with that Test ace as old as it was almost no oxidation very clean sharp MP at 142°C start and stop before and after and absorbance in UV was basically identical. At least it was easy enough to get back pure product that I started with. Kinda wish I had something shitty to play with now.

 

[Thorshammer]

Okay guys, I had about 3ml left of Dragon primo that was 200mg/ml. It made my crp go crazy, so I knew it had EO in it. Didn't plan on finishing the vial, so why not try to extract the raws from the finished injectable..

Crashed out primo crystals were pretty cool! Now I just have to filter them out and dry

Step 1: BA + EO Defat – Heptane Pulls the Junk

Ice bath the 3 mL brew in a small beaker.
Add 15 mL n-heptane → swirl → instant emulsion.

Science: Heptane (dielectric ~1.9) loves EO, BB, MCT — Primo solubility ~12–15 g/100 mL (even lower than hexane).

Add 3 mL ice-cold distilled H₂O → swirl gently.
Science: BA is 100 % water-soluble → jumps out. EO/BB stay in heptane.
Chill 5 min → bottom aqueous layer (BA + H₂O) separates.
Syringe out bottom → discard.
Repeat water pull 1× (another 3 mL H₂O).
Result: ~18 mL heptane layer = Primo + BB + EO + oil. BA gone.

Step 2: Primo → 50/50 IPA/H₂O (BB Stays in Heptane)

Transfer heptane layer to sep funnel

Pre-make 50/50 IPA/H₂O: 37.5 mL IPA + 37.5 mL H₂O → chill
Add 15 mL cold 50/50 IPA/H₂O to heptane layer.
Invert gently 25× (no shaking) → stand 10 min in freezer.

Science:
Primo-Enanthate → >40 g/100 mL in 50 % IPA.
BB → 0.05 g/100 mL in 50 % IPA → 99.9 % stays in heptane.
EO + MCT → insoluble in 50 % IPA → stay top.
Drain bottom IPA layer → Beaker #1.
Repeat 4 more times (5× total, 15 mL fresh 50/50 each).
Pulls 4–5 are nearly clear → you’re done.
Result: ~75 mL IPA layer = Primo
Heptane layer = BB + EO + oil (discard).

Step 3: Dry the IPA – MgSO₄ Kills Water
Combined all 5 IPA pulls (~75 mL).
Add 12 g anhydrous MgSO₄ in 3 g portions, swirling after each.
Science: 1 g MgSO₄ binds ~0.9 mL H₂O → 12 g dries ~37 mL water in the mix.
Swirl 10–15 min → dry sand texture (no clumps).
Filter out MgSO with Buchner funnel
Result: Water <0.1 %

Step 4: Crystallize – Reduce + Cold Heptane Crash
Fan-blow or low heat (<50 °C) the 70 mL IPA → reduce to ~1.5–2 mL.
Add 2 mL ice-cold n-heptane → instant snowstorm.
Chill 30 min in freezer.
Filter put crystals with 100 mesh nylon fabric over a bowel
Wash crystals with 2 × 2.5 mL ice-cold heptane.
Air-dry or vacuum dry crystals.

Thats cool I need to try that next good work.

 

[mongo5165]

Well tinkered with that Test ace as old as it was almost no oxidation very clean sharp MP at 142°C start and stop before and after and absorbance in UV was basically identical. At least it was easy enough to get back pure product that I started with. Kinda wish I had something shitty to play with now.

That's pretty wild it hasent oxidized overtime. How old is it? Was it stored in the freezer ?

 

[Thorshammer]

That's pretty wild it hasent oxidized overtime. How old is it? Was it stored in the freezer ?

Nope in a drawer. Like 6 years honestly I don't even remember anymore I got a fresh kilo of ace back when I could get them for 400 bucks and pushed it to the side and have been casually ignoring it every sense. Horrible conditions I just knew it was shit guess that ester is pretty tough.

 

[Thorshammer]

Honestly when I dumped the bag in a weigh boat on the scale and saw how pretty white the color and texture was I knew this might actually be fine still .Shorter esters are a lot more resilient.

 

[mongo5165]

Hey folks, I just pulled off something cool: un-baking the cake and recovering raw testosterone enanthate from some old homebrew in GSO. With oxidation creeping in over time, I figured why not extract the goods? It was a bit of a pain at first, but once I dialed it in, the process was straightforward. Here’s the step-by-step in case anyone wants to salvage sketchy gear (this should work for MCT oil too).

Step 1: Initial Setup & BA Strip
Chill everything in an ice bath.
Add 30 mL n-heptane to the GSO/test mix—it emulsifies beautifully.
Add 10 mL water to pull out the benzyl alcohol (BA).
Chill again; the water + BA layer sinks, leaving heptane + GSO + test + BB on top.
Syringe out the bottom aqueous layer and discard. Repeat once more.

Step 2: Polar Extraction (Test + BB to Ethanol)
Still cold, transfer the heptane mix to a separatory funnel.
Add a 70/30 ethanol/water blend (start with ~40 mL).
Gently swish (no shaking!) ~20 times.
Pop it in the freezer for 10 min—layers separate like magic:
Bottom: ethanol/water + test + BB
Top: heptane + GSO
Drain the bottom ethanol layer into a beaker; save the oil layer in another.
Return the oil layer to the funnel, add fresh 40 mL ethanol/water, and repeat 3× total to grab every last bit of test. Separation is lightning-fast in the freezer.

Step 3: Dry the Ethanol Extracts
Combine all ethanol pulls.
Add anhydrous magnesium sulfate on a stir plate to soak up the water.
Filter out the MgSO₄.
Step 4: Strip the BB (the tricky part)
BB is stubborn—even under deep vacuum it needs heat.
I set a small electric hot plate under my vacuum chamber; ~1 hour did the trick.
Tip: You might be able to recrystallize with BB present, but I haven’t tested it.

Step 5: Crystallize the Goods
Add just enough ethanol to cover the remaining test gel in the dish.
Freeze overnight—BAM, crystals!

Clean, sparkly test enanthate ready for a fresh brew. Hope this helps anyone sitting on questionable vials!

Finally got around to retrieving the raws the from the freezer and drying them. They tuned into beautiful snowflakes, very fluffy stuff, very little cleanup. I processed 5ml of test e 400mg/ml in GSO. So that would be 2g in a perfect world and I was salvaged 1.5g exactly on the scale

Had to add a little more ethanol to keep it from freezing but it worked out.

 

[Luka.Halotestin]

Well tinkered with that Test ace as old as it was almost no oxidation very clean sharp MP at 142°C start and stop before and after and absorbance in UV was basically identical. At least it was easy enough to get back pure product that I started with. Kinda wish I had something shitty to play with now.

I got shitty NPP 1.5 kg. Wanna trade it for something clean so you can play with it?

 

[Luka.Halotestin]

Okay guys, I had about 3ml left of Dragon primo that was 200mg/ml. It made my crp go crazy, so I knew it had EO in it. Didn't plan on finishing the vial, so why not try to extract the raws from the finished injectable..

Crashed out primo crystals were pretty cool! Now I just have to filter them out and dry

Step 1: BA + EO Defat – Heptane Pulls the Junk

Ice bath the 3 mL brew in a small beaker.
Add 15 mL n-heptane → swirl → instant emulsion.

Science: Heptane (dielectric ~1.9) loves EO, BB, MCT — Primo solubility ~12–15 g/100 mL (even lower than hexane).

Add 3 mL ice-cold distilled H₂O → swirl gently.
Science: BA is 100 % water-soluble → jumps out. EO/BB stay in heptane.
Chill 5 min → bottom aqueous layer (BA + H₂O) separates.
Syringe out bottom → discard.
Repeat water pull 1× (another 3 mL H₂O).
Result: ~18 mL heptane layer = Primo + BB + EO + oil. BA gone.

Step 2: Primo → 50/50 IPA/H₂O (BB Stays in Heptane)

Transfer heptane layer to sep funnel

Pre-make 50/50 IPA/H₂O: 37.5 mL IPA + 37.5 mL H₂O → chill
Add 15 mL cold 50/50 IPA/H₂O to heptane layer.
Invert gently 25× (no shaking) → stand 10 min in freezer.

Science:
Primo-Enanthate → >40 g/100 mL in 50 % IPA.
BB → 0.05 g/100 mL in 50 % IPA → 99.9 % stays in heptane.
EO + MCT → insoluble in 50 % IPA → stay top.
Drain bottom IPA layer → Beaker #1.
Repeat 4 more times (5× total, 15 mL fresh 50/50 each).
Pulls 4–5 are nearly clear → you’re done.
Result: ~75 mL IPA layer = Primo
Heptane layer = BB + EO + oil (discard).

Step 3: Dry the IPA – MgSO₄ Kills Water
Combined all 5 IPA pulls (~75 mL).
Add 12 g anhydrous MgSO₄ in 3 g portions, swirling after each.
Science: 1 g MgSO₄ binds ~0.9 mL H₂O → 12 g dries ~37 mL water in the mix.
Swirl 10–15 min → dry sand texture (no clumps).
Filter out MgSO with Buchner funnel
Result: Water <0.1 %

Step 4: Crystallize – Reduce + Cold Heptane Crash
Fan-blow or low heat (<50 °C) the 70 mL IPA → reduce to ~1.5–2 mL.
Add 2 mL ice-cold n-heptane → instant snowstorm.
Chill 30 min in freezer.
Filter put crystals with 100 mesh nylon fabric over a bowel
Wash crystals with 2 × 2.5 mL ice-cold heptane.
Air-dry or vacuum dry crystals.

This ain't science. This is ART.

 

[aromatizer]

$64M question, does the reconstituted test E still give bad pip?

 

[mongo5165]

$64M question, does the reconstituted test E still give bad pip?

Just pinned some yesterday and no pip at all. Before it deff was more noticeable and the oil depot stuck around longer

 

[dinfaralt]

Maybe line the raws bowl with a 300mesh nylon fabric

maybe if you put the bag in very cold nahco3, stir it for few mins drain it for 10-20 seconds and then wash the bag with sterile water very cold sterile water aswell

let me you know what you did, been some time since ive been on here. i think if you do the 300mesh nylon bag right it can be very genius.

 

[mongo5165]

maybe if you put the bag in very cold nahco3, stir it for few mins drain it for 10-20 seconds and then wash the bag with sterile water very cold sterile water aswell

let me you know what you did, been some time since ive been on here. i think if you do the 300mesh nylon bag right it can be very genius.

After some recent experiments, I've found that 300 mesh is far too fine. It doesn't drain the solvent or water quickly enough. When recrystallizing with ethanol, the material resembles a loosely packed snowball with a significant amount of ethanol still trapped inside. This creates a catch-22 situation for liquid raws (higher melting point raws behave quite differently). You don't want to leave the ethanol in there because as it warms—even in the vacuum chamber—the material just remelts and forms a slurry. But if you agitate it too much during washing, it breaks apart and falls through the mesh. Today I'm going to retrieve another 12g or so, and I've purchased some 60 mesh nylon fabric. I'll suspend it tightly above a bowl, slide the frozen mass in one piece onto the fabric, and allow it to free-drain for a few hours in the freezer. I'm hoping this creates enough pressure differential for the entrained ethanol to drain freely without pooling on the fabric. Only one way to find out, I suppose.

 

[dinfaralt]

After some recent experiments, I've found that 300 mesh is far too fine. It doesn't drain the solvent or water quickly enough. When recrystallizing with ethanol, the material resembles a loosely packed snowball with a significant amount of ethanol still trapped inside. This creates a catch-22 situation for liquid raws (higher melting point raws behave quite differently). You don't want to leave the ethanol in there because as it warms—even in the vacuum chamber—the material just remelts and forms a slurry. But if you agitate it too much during washing, it breaks apart and falls through the mesh. Today I'm going to retrieve another 12g or so, and I've purchased some 60 mesh nylon fabric. I'll suspend it tightly above a bowl, slide the frozen mass in one piece onto the fabric, and allow it to free-drain for a few hours in the freezer. I'm hoping this creates enough pressure differential for the entrained ethanol to drain freely without pooling on the fabric. Only one way to find out, I suppose.

i see.

thanks for dedicating so much of your time and really going in depth with this and documenting it.

i will defiently catch up with your work later!

 

[mongo5165]

i see.

thanks for dedicating so much of your time and really going in depth with this and documenting it.

i will defiently catch up with your work later!

You bet!

So I went ahead and clamped up the 60 mesh nylon on a pan and transfered the Test E snowball on top of it. Ill let it sit overnight in the freezer and see how it goes before spraying it down with water and throwing it in the vacuum chamber

 

[Motojager]

You bet!

So I went ahead and clamped up the 60 mesh nylon on a pan and transfered the Test E snowball on top of it. Ill let it sit overnight in the freezer and see how it goes before spraying it down with water and throwing it in the vacuum chamber

Rotovap and be done.

 

[mongo5165]

Rotovap and be done.

Im on the cheap man, those things are like a grand for the cheap ones. Would be nice though ! Need a go fund me lol

 

[Motojager]

Im on the cheap man, those things are like a grand for the cheap ones. Would be nice though ! Need a go fund me lol

Stay away from the cheap CN ones. Can find deals from universities they often sell their old ones. Local lab equipment resellers. Just make sure everything is there. Glassware is $$$

 

[IndividualMan]

good glassware is GOATED. had a cheap chinese erlenmeyer get eaten through by some PH13 Abomination I made in uni (underfunded lab for intro classes, thats why cheap glassware)
entire bottom lost a few mm of thickness.