1st Time Home Brew Questions

Tank1978

New Member
I will be running my first batch and wanted to get some insight as it seems there are a lot of different ways people go about this.

I will be using the following equipment to brew.

Magnetic Stirrer / Hot Plate - Digital
500 ml Glass Beaker
Whatman ZapCap Bottle Top Filter, Nylon 33/45mm neck, 0.22 um
Hand Vacuum Pump with Pressure Gauge
Benzyl Alcohol
Benzyl Benzoate
Oil (MCT)
3cc Syringe
10cc Syringe
25g-27g needle
18g Needle x2
250 ML Glass Media Bottle
Wheaton Black Phenolic 33mm Caps with attached Butyl Septa
Scale

Going to brew Test Cyp/Tren Ace / Mast Prop first with the following recipes.

Test cyp 200mg/ml 10g=50ml

1%BA=.5ml

20%BB=10ml

MCT=29.5ml

Tren Ace 100mg/ml 10g =100ml

1%BA=1ml

20%BB=20ml

MCT=69ml

Mast prop 100mg/ml 10g =100ml

1%BA=1ml

20%BB=20ml

MCT=69ml

Question 1: Any concerns/comments with these ratios?

Question 2: I have seen a lot of opinions on heating methods. Do I need to try to get each of these to the listed melting points for each compound and then cool down?

Question 3: I have seen a lot of people add/heat carrier oil first then ad BB/BA and finally add RAWS and I have seen people add RAWS first and then add everything else. Is there a correct order for adding Oils and Raws?

Any other advice for the first Home Brew that may help to make this go smooth?

Thanks








 
Question 1: Any concerns/comments with these ratios?
Where/how are you getting powder weight calculations? I've always used basskiller for recipes. And usually leave it at .85 (unless you know the exact powder weight) But with those calculations were talking 1ml or so of carrier oil. For more info and a good calculator here it is. Also the the powder weight displacement is at the bottom.

Steroid Calculator
Question 2: I have seen a lot of opinions on heating methods. Do I need to try to get each of these to the listed melting points for each compound and then cool down?

Question 3: I have seen a lot of people add/heat carrier oil first then ad BB/BA and finally add RAWS and I have seen people add RAWS first and then add everything else. Is there a correct order for adding Oils and Raws?
Don't over think this one too much. Getting the oil to the melting point is going to speed up the process. But is not necessary. I have always used heat. And usually I don't even measure the temperature. I just heated up to the point where I can grab the glass and it's hot but not too hot to hold. Also he is going to make your filtration process a lot faster as well.

As far as the order I have always put carrier oil on and heated and then added my raws. Then added my BB and BA. I don't think it's necessary to have a specific order but I just don't want to put the BB and BA in with heat for too long.

Edit: Also if you are overdosing you need to account for that.
 
Test C @ 1/20 can be dosed at 250 no crashing. Master P can be done @ 1/18. Dissolving compound into solvent imo put all BB, half oil heat at 150f and mix up to 20 min if not dissolved up heat 10f increments. 150f is normally good enough for everything. Besides sterility moisture is the number one thing to watch out for. Also I've bought a few different pre sterilized vials and have seen small fibers here in there so planning to do all that myself from here on out. O and I use 9.1 as my displacement for most things.
 
Test C @ 1/20 can be dosed at 250 no crashing. Master P can be done @ 1/18. Dissolving compound into solvent imo put all BB, half oil heat at 150f and mix up to 20 min if not dissolved up heat 10f increments. 150f is normally good enough for everything. Besides sterility moisture is the number one thing to watch out for. Also I've bought a few different pre sterilized vials and have seen small fibers here in there so planning to do all that myself from here on out. O and I use 9.1 as my displacement for most things.
So, I just finished my first 50 ml test Cyp batch at 220. I heated and mixed it for 20-25 minutes until it was clear and I could not see any raw left. after filtering into a sterile vial, I looked closely in the light and could see the tiniest particles floating in the vial that I am assuming is the Test Cyp. Is this normal or did I not heat this long enough and need to reheat and refilter again into a new vial?
 
So, I just finished my first 50 ml test Cyp batch at 220. I heated and mixed it for 20-25 minutes until it was clear and I could not see any raw left. after filtering into a sterile vial, I looked closely in the light and could see the tiniest particles floating in the vial that I am assuming is the Test Cyp. Is this normal or did I not heat this long enough and need to reheat and refilter again into a new vial?
What kind of filter did you use? If using a proper filter like .2um there should be no way any large particles are passing through. Considering they are filtering out bacteria. It is possible if you were using a syringe filter (assuming you are) that you pushed too hard and the membrane was compromised causing small filter particles to enter your brew.
 
What kind of filter did you use? If using a proper filter like .2um there should be no way any large particles are passing through. Considering they are filtering out bacteria. It is possible if you were using a syringe filter (assuming you are) that you pushed too hard and the membrane was compromised causing small filter particles to enter your brew.
I used the .22 um syringe filter. It was probably that I pushed it through too fast. Can I just filter it again when I do my next batch tomorrow? I plan on using the vacuum filter tomorrow with a .22 um bottle top filter. This is why my dummy self wanted to do a smaller test batch to knock out any kinks in my process. Thanks for responding!
 
I used the .22 um syringe filter. It was probably that I pushed it through too fast. Can I just filter it again when I do my next batch tomorrow? I plan on using the vacuum filter tomorrow with a .22 um bottle top filter. This is why my dummy self wanted to do a smaller test batch to knock out any kinks in my process. Thanks for responding!

Sounds like you popped the syringe filter. Yes you can just refilter it with either a syringe filter or add it to the new batch that's going through the bottle top filter. Warm the mixture slightly before filtering and it will flow through the filter easier/quicker.

Keep us posted brother :)
 
@Tank1978 what he said. Also I have somewhere in here a cool set up I have of my vacuum pump for bottle top filtering. And a gauge for measuring pressure.
 
I will be running my first batch and wanted to get some insight as it seems there are a lot of different ways people go about this.

I will be using the following equipment to brew.

Magnetic Stirrer / Hot Plate - Digital
500 ml Glass Beaker
Whatman ZapCap Bottle Top Filter, Nylon 33/45mm neck, 0.22 um
Hand Vacuum Pump with Pressure Gauge
Benzyl Alcohol
Benzyl Benzoate
Oil (MCT)
3cc Syringe
10cc Syringe
25g-27g needle
18g Needle x2
250 ML Glass Media Bottle
Wheaton Black Phenolic 33mm Caps with attached Butyl Septa
Scale

Going to brew Test Cyp/Tren Ace / Mast Prop first with the following recipes.

Test cyp 200mg/ml 10g=50ml

1%BA=.5ml

20%BB=10ml

MCT=29.5ml

Tren Ace 100mg/ml 10g =100ml

1%BA=1ml

20%BB=20ml

MCT=69ml

Mast prop 100mg/ml 10g =100ml

1%BA=1ml

20%BB=20ml

MCT=69ml

Question 1: Any concerns/comments with these ratios?

Question 2: I have seen a lot of opinions on heating methods. Do I need to try to get each of these to the listed melting points for each compound and then cool down?

Question 3: I have seen a lot of people add/heat carrier oil first then ad BB/BA and finally add RAWS and I have seen people add RAWS first and then add everything else. Is there a correct order for adding Oils and Raws?

Any other advice for the first Home Brew that may help to make this go smooth?

Thanks









I'm pretty sure the bottle top filters you posted don't come sterile. Just something to watch for brother.

20210804_213750.jpg20210804_213843.jpg
 
Sounds like you popped the syringe filter. Yes you can just refilter it with either a syringe filter or add it to the new batch that's going through the bottle top filter. Warm the mixture slightly before filtering and it will flow through the filter easier/quicker.

Keep us posted brother :)
Definitely feel like an idiot now reading more of the posts you guys sent. I was using a PES.22 Sterile 33mm syringe filter. I planned on using the Steritop Sterile Filter but the Hand Vacuum pump broke within a few minutes of using it.
IMG_3765.jpgIMG_3764.jpg

Pictures are of the Masteron MCT @ 100 MG/ML - 45 ML - Clear with no signs of any raws.
IMG_3770.jpgIMG_3771.jpg
The Tren scares me because I'm not sure the color is right based on other pictures I've seen. I followed the 1/18 and displacement per Steroid Calculator for the Tren with MCT oil as the carrier. Ended up clear but concerned because others have discussed darker Tren can mean bad Raws. Everything was from Panda.
IMG_3767.jpgIMG_3769.jpg

Test Cyp -cloudy. Assuming I fucked up sterilizing the bottle? I washed it with soap - alcohol bath - distilled water bath - 350 degrees in the oven for 45 minutes with aluminum foil on top.

Here is what I have planned to refilter and questions.

1.) Ordered correct Syringe filters -Sterile Syringe Filters PVDF 25mm 0.22 um

2.) Ordered Pre-Sterilile vials 50 ml - Is this the best way for me as a newb?

3.) Is it worth buying an autoclave for sterilizing?

4.) I can toss the Test Cyp if you think it's crashed. Also, will the Test Cyp have a color to it if I used MCT?
IMG_3766.jpg

5.) Guess I need to sit back and make a damn list before my next brew to not screw up so bad.

Appreciate all of the help @JetsFan @Heavy Iron and @Beastmode2782

I really just want to do this the right way and be absolutely safe by respecting the process.
 
Tren A looks ok. Don't see anything wrong about the color
Here is for example some tren a that I brew and looks similar
Darker tren means is have high oxidation and is not a good thing 20210806_011205.jpg

Regarding the color of test c in different oil would not be significant different and I will post to photos to get an idea. First is test c in mct oil second is in gso.
20210806_011220.jpg

20210806_011232.jpg

I also buy pre sterilized vials as is much easier and as I don't use many is not expensive and not worth it to buy all the things needed to sterilize myself the vials.

Regarding the test c from the photos is looking like is got some water. In that case search a thread where is discussed that problem and how to resolve. Don't throw the oil as is can be repaired
 
There's absolutely nothing wrong with darker colored tren, in fact some of the best tren I've ever run was light to dark orange.
 
Definitely feel like an idiot now reading more of the posts you guys sent. I was using a PES.22 Sterile 33mm syringe filter. I planned on using the Steritop Sterile Filter but the Hand Vacuum pump broke within a few minutes of using it.
View attachment 151680View attachment 151681

Pictures are of the Masteron MCT @ 100 MG/ML - 45 ML - Clear with no signs of any raws.
View attachment 151678View attachment 151679
The Tren scares me because I'm not sure the color is right based on other pictures I've seen. I followed the 1/18 and displacement per Steroid Calculator for the Tren with MCT oil as the carrier. Ended up clear but concerned because others have discussed darker Tren can mean bad Raws. Everything was from Panda.
View attachment 151675View attachment 151677

Test Cyp -cloudy. Assuming I fucked up sterilizing the bottle? I washed it with soap - alcohol bath - distilled water bath - 350 degrees in the oven for 45 minutes with aluminum foil on top.

Here is what I have planned to refilter and questions.

1.) Ordered correct Syringe filters -Sterile Syringe Filters PVDF 25mm 0.22 um

2.) Ordered Pre-Sterilile vials 50 ml - Is this the best way for me as a newb?

3.) Is it worth buying an autoclave for sterilizing?

4.) I can toss the Test Cyp if you think it's crashed. Also, will the Test Cyp have a color to it if I used MCT?
View attachment 151674

5.) Guess I need to sit back and make a damn list before my next brew to not screw up so bad.

Appreciate all of the help @JetsFan @Heavy Iron and @Beastmode2782

I really just want to do this the right way and be absolutely safe by respecting the process.

You need to refilter all your gear with .22 pvdf or nylon or ptfe. The cloudy test is because the pes filter dissolved into your brew and most likely so did everything else even if you can't see it.

Refilter and get yourself a Lab Fish vacuum pump, worth ever penny brother :cool:

Btw your tren looks fucking gorgeous bro, just refilter it and good to go :)

20210730_145918.jpg
 
Last edited:

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