Brake Bleeder Pressure

TideGear

Well-known Member
So the vacuum pump I bought came from the brake bleeder section on Amazon but the gauge is in mmHg .1 mmHg converts to about 1.93 psi so it's not gonna read very high. Have any of you had this problem and if so, what did you do about it?
 
So the vacuum pump I bought came from the brake bleeder section on Amazon but the gauge is in mmHg .1 mmHg converts to about 1.93 psi so it's not gonna read very high. Have any of you had this problem and if so, what did you do about it?
Are you sure the gauge doesn't go DOWN TO 0.1 mm Hg?
It starts with 760 mm Hg (atmospheric pressure) and as the needle moves, numbers go DOWN?

They're indicating the REMAINING pressure left, not the vacuum.

Zoom in this one and you'll see
 
Oh OK yeah mine is like that. Am I shooting for any particular number or do you just stop pumping when it starts to flow through the filter?
 
Oh OK yeah mine is like that. Am I shooting for any particular number or do you just stop pumping when it starts to flow through the filter?
Check your filter specs
but max vacuum is around 10 psi
10 psi = about 517 mm Hg

so 760 mm Hg (atmospheric pressure) minus 517 = 243
You should never get at or below 243 mm Hg gauge reading.


10 psi is probably way too much for most filters
5 psi vacuum is pretty safe
5 psi = 258 mm Hg
760 - 258 = 502
So, aim for about 500 mm Hg reading at the gauge.
 
So the vacuum pump I bought came from the brake bleeder section on Amazon but the gauge is in mmHg .1 mmHg converts to about 1.93 psi so it's not gonna read very high. Have any of you had this problem and if so, what did you do about it?

Since you’ve already considered the conversion factor, what is the problem?

Otherwise when I’m confronted with an issue that’s far removed from my area of expertise, I believe consulting or visiting a professional in that field is usually the most reliable option.

But since we are talking about a “mechanic” who’s training and qualifications are difficult to substantiate, perhaps a Web search would be a more viable option.

Good luck

Jim
 
Since you’ve already considered the conversion factor, what is the problem?

Otherwise when I’m confronted with an issue that’s far removed from my area of expertise, I believe consulting or visiting a professional in that field is usually the most reliable option.

But since we are talking about a “mechanic” who’s training and qualifications are difficult to substantiate, perhaps a Web search would be a more viable option.

Good luck

Jim
Well I thought I had read that more pressure was needed than what @master.on said. I guess I've read so much over the past few weeks that I'm forgetting as much as I'm learning. Making this thread was about as close to consulting a professional as I could do. If that is all the pressure that is needed then I'm in good shape. Thanks for your input.
 
Im not a brewer but I am truck mechanic. Hand vacuum pump should pull a good vacuum I wouldnt picture it doing damage to a syringe or vial, dont know about a filter? If your advanced they do sell AC vacuum pumps used for car ac systems for about 90 bucks. They pull a standard 28" for about 20 min before a recharge. An added benefit to using a vacuum is it removes moisture from the product.
 
Im not a brewer but I am truck mechanic. Hand vacuum pump should pull a good vacuum I wouldnt picture it doing damage to a syringe or vial, dont know about a filter? If your advanced they do sell AC vacuum pumps used for car ac systems for about 90 bucks. They pull a standard 28" for about 20 min before a recharge. An added benefit to using a vacuum is it removes moisture from the product.
I'm a car guy and a brewer and what I think he needs to do is pull vacuum till it starts and leave it there. Pulling more vacuum isn't gonna speed up the flow cause it can only handle so much. I've tested this over and over again.
 
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