Filtering hard through syringe filters

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Maybe this a stupid question and I'm just paranoid.


I was brewing some npp and test p (separately) this morning. I use syringe filters and I was brewing 100ml of each (ya I know).

The npp was fine, that got a bit hot but no biggie.

By the time I started filtering the test p I was exhausted and I was filtering it at 150F hard. Pushing hard on the 10ml syringe to get it done quick.

None of the filters blew. But I usually filter much slower and at a lower temp. Maybe I'm paranoid but is it OK to filter it hard with a lot of pressure as long as the syringe filter doesn't blow? It was 150F and I was pushing hard as hell
 
Did you use the same filter for both batches? I find about 100 ml's is the most i use a filter for, as they can start getting enough sediment build up that filtering gets tough. I find the less clan a powder is the more difficult it is to push through a filter.
 
If filter is intact and it's rated for 150f you are fine.
Next time get a caulking gun, a 50ml syringe and go slower. You will not get tired.
I used Whatman GD/X 25mm Sterile PVDF Syringe Filter, 0.2 um filters.

I'm currently trying to find the working temp and psi rating

I tried the 50ml syringe and caulk gun and it didn't work well
 
Did you use the same filter for both batches? I find about 100 ml's is the most i use a filter for, as they can start getting enough sediment build up that filtering gets tough. I find the less clan a powder is the more difficult it is to push through a filter.
No I changed filters every 30ish ml
 
I use these NEST 342101 0.22um Pre-Sterilized PVDF Bottle Filters with a custom vacuum setup. If you apply full vacuum to it, it cracks and leaks because it's weak plastic. So I use a needle valve that lets in a little extra air that I can "dial in" to a good in-between vacuum. 20 inches of mercury is a good happy medium where it filters fast enough but doesn't break the plastic filter bottle.

- $10 - 1/4" NPT Brass 4-way Cross
- $3 - 1/4" NPT Nipple
- $15 - Needle Valve
- $3 - (2) 1/4" NPT to 1/4" Hose Barb
- $13 - Vacuum Gauge
- $22 - Vacuum Pump (you'll also need a 12V power supply that can supply some decent amperage, I just found one from some old electronic thing lying around in my giant bin of cables which was 12V, 3 Amp)
- $10 - Tubing with ID of 1/4" and OD large enough to be reasonably stiff
- $10 - 12V, 3A power supply if you dont have something like it lying around. Cut the plug end off and strip the wires and tie/solder them to the terminals on the vacuum pump.

Basically screw all the NPT-threaded pieces together in a 4-way cross arrangement and then run one hose to the vacuum pump and the other hose to the filter. Then open the needle valve all the way up, start the vacuum pump, and slowly close the needle valve until you reach 20 inches of mercury on the gauge.

So the cross will be like:

1) Hose to pump
2) Hose to filter
3) Vacuum Gauge
4) Nipple -> Needle Valve
 
I CAN'T use just the syringe. I have to use a caulking gun.

Note:
Just don't wait until you're about to brew to attempt to fit it all together to see if it works.

A cheap caulking gun works for me fairly well. I bought an expensive caulking gun which uses all that high tech to turn a normal squeeze into like an eighth of the grip pressure but still squeeze it hard & the fuckin syringe doesn't fit in there & I'm stuck using the cheapo gun until I modify it, if I ever do lol.

You just need to use common sense as well.

Don't leave the fucking syringe in there without holding it in place with your other hand as it can explode sideways out of the gun & that's bad.

Watch how much pressure you apply to the filter as well. If the thing is clogged up & not much is coming out anymore, try heating the oil a bit as that helps. At some point the filter is going to be clogged to shit. It's time to replace it. Forcing it past this point takes a shit load of energy & you're walking on thin ice with the filter potentially exploding & you'll be doing this all over again if you manage to even capture the oil in the first place.

Some filters I can get a lot out of & others not so much.

Of course when I'm filtering thicker denser oil the filter clogs up way faster than some thinner stuff. So Test or Deca 250 clogs that shit up way faster then Tren Ace 100.

With 100ml of 250mg/ml stuff I end up using 2 Whatman filters. It becomes hard AF at around 50mls.

Now I add in my benzyl alcohol after filtration as I've noticed in the beginning when I add in the BA & then filter it filters almost too easily & imo the filter DOESN'T seem to function properly. It's like the alcohol eats it up or something. It came out the water from the tap. There's no way imo that the BA dissolves the solution that much that all the shit clogging the filter still gets picked up by the filter but it's that easy to filter. I've NEVER had any sterilization issues doing it this way ever.
 
I CAN'T use just the syringe. I have to use a caulking gun.

Note:
Just don't wait until you're about to brew to attempt to fit it all together to see if it works.

A cheap caulking gun works for me fairly well. I bought an expensive caulking gun which uses all that high tech to turn a normal squeeze into like an eighth of the grip pressure but still squeeze it hard & the fuckin syringe doesn't fit in there & I'm stuck using the cheapo gun until I modify it, if I ever do lol.

You just need to use common sense as well.

Don't leave the fucking syringe in there without holding it in place with your other hand as it can explode sideways out of the gun & that's bad.

Watch how much pressure you apply to the filter as well. If the thing is clogged up & not much is coming out anymore, try heating the oil a bit as that helps. At some point the filter is going to be clogged to shit. It's time to replace it. Forcing it past this point takes a shit load of energy & you're walking on thin ice with the filter potentially exploding & you'll be doing this all over again if you manage to even capture the oil in the first place.

Some filters I can get a lot out of & others not so much.

Of course when I'm filtering thicker denser oil the filter clogs up way faster than some thinner stuff. So Test or Deca 250 clogs that shit up way faster then Tren Ace 100.

With 100ml of 250mg/ml stuff I end up using 2 Whatman filters. It becomes hard AF at around 50mls.

Now I add in my benzyl alcohol after filtration as I've noticed in the beginning when I add in the BA & then filter it filters almost too easily & imo the filter DOESN'T seem to function properly. It's like the alcohol eats it up or something. It came out the water from the tap. There's no way imo that the BA dissolves the solution that much that all the shit clogging the filter still gets picked up by the filter but it's that easy to filter. I've NEVER had any sterilization issues doing it this way ever.
Hmm that's interesting. I'll have to try with using BA after filtration as well.
 
Hmm that's interesting. I'll have to try with using BA after filtration as well.
This is probably fine but apparently fungals can stay alive in BA technically. I guess. Honestly I haven't looked it up, 1-2 random dudes said that once and I was like "hmmm if I ever need to, I'll go look that up".

Also BA should only "eat" PES filters. PTFE and PVDF filters should be fine. It just thins out the oil. Notice the same guy who doesn't put BA in is like "holy shit its crazy hard to filter and I need to heat it and it shatters the filter when I push too hard and..."

BA thinning the oil a bit is fine -- it's actually helpful! Just use a PTFE or PVDF filter (with oil temperature <= 50C) and you'll be fine. not a PES filter.
 
This is probably fine but apparently fungals can stay alive in BA technically. I guess. Honestly I haven't looked it up, 1-2 random dudes said that once and I was like "hmmm if I ever need to, I'll go look that up".

Also BA should only "eat" PES filters. PTFE and PVDF filters should be fine. It just thins out the oil. Notice the same guy who doesn't put BA in is like "holy shit its crazy hard to filter and I need to heat it and it shatters the filter when I push too hard and..."

BA thinning the oil a bit is fine -- it's actually helpful! Just use a PTFE or PVDF filter (with oil temperature <= 50C) and you'll be fine. not a PES filter.
I personally would feel more comfortable filtering the ba with the oil as a whole.

I've had great luck with PVDF filters.
 
This is probably fine but apparently fungals can stay alive in BA technically. I guess. Honestly I haven't looked it up, 1-2 random dudes said that once and I was like "hmmm if I ever need to, I'll go look that up".

Also BA should only "eat" PES filters. PTFE and PVDF filters should be fine. It just thins out the oil. Notice the same guy who doesn't put BA in is like "holy shit its crazy hard to filter and I need to heat it and it shatters the filter when I push too hard and..."

BA thinning the oil a bit is fine -- it's actually helpful! Just use a PTFE or PVDF filter (with oil temperature <= 50C) and you'll be fine. not a PES filter.
Something doesn't feel right with the BA in it.

It's far too easy with the BA in there. To me it's not just thinning the oil. It's easy at first & then the filter starts to pick up & filter things out & the filtering gets harder to do over time. Imo this is normal & how a filter works.

I've ONLY ever had 1 filter blow out of, oh I don't know 1,000ish of them that I've made over the past decade or so. So you know there's context to WTF I'm talking about here.

With the BA in there I could filter for hours using the same filter. It barely gets harder & yes I'm using the filters you mentioned.

Please explain this to me then.
Why does the filter without the BA pick up & eventually clog but this doesn't happen with the BA in it? If it's pulling the same amount of shit up in the filter how thick or thin the oil is doesn't matter over time that much because if the filter is so clogged that I CAN'T get any oil out of it then it's seriously clogged & needs replaced. This doesn't happen with the BA in it so the same amount of shit is in the filter & it it works like there's ZERO shit in it. The viscosity ISN'T that crazy imo.

I've NEVER had a dirty vial in over a decade & I've put in WORK home brewing. I wouldn't even post on this site for the first decade that I was learning shit because of OpSec. I know this doesn't 100% mean my shit is 100% sterile & safe but I've had a few dozen people all pinning the same shit for a long time & there's never been any bad shit doing it this way so to just piss in my face & tell me I'm wrong here is just CRAZY.
 
If filter is intact and it's rated for 150f you are fine.
Next time get a caulking gun, a 50ml syringe and go slower. You will not get tired.
Do you recommend a 13mm of 25mm when it comes to 0.22 syringe filters planning on using it for tren and test
 
I personally would feel more comfortable filtering the ba with the oil as a whole.

I've had great luck with PVDF filters.
What’s better to filter tren ace and test e 13mm or 25mm syringe filter and how do you know when it’s time to change the filter when it is broken ?
 
It will slow down to a drip when it gets clogged up no matter the pressure (within reason)

Broken filters are the next step, they clog up,.you put more pressure that it can handle per specs and it goes from a drip to too easy.
So if it starts to come out too fast, then it’s broken right because it’s supposed to come out slow since it’s filtering it did I understand that correct?
 
So if it starts to come out too fast, then it’s broken right because it’s supposed to come out slow since it’s filtering it did I understand that correct?
If it goes from a drip to a hose yes. It can go pretty fast if it's thin carrier oil (mct) and warm enough. But if it gets easier something is fishy.

It usually either becomes cloudy or you can see the filter fibers in the solution too.
 
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