First home brew batch looks hazy?

Bugsy123

New Member
Hey everyone long time lurker of the forum and finally made a profile. Last week I made my first batch of test e. I followed this recipe:

20.4g of test e powder
1.6g BA
9.5gBB
66.1g MCT

I added the carrier oil and BB in with the powder and heated it up by putting water in a pan and putting the beaker in that (I know rookie mistake) stirred it with my rod and everything mixed together very well. I let it cool down and added BA. I filtered it using a .22 bottle top filter and everything came out really clear. I noticed a day later that the oil now looks slightly hazy. I added pictures of how it looks before and after. Thanks for any info. C2B3087C-C9D7-4B59-99B0-A6A93B526E93.jpeg
68275299-D989-4270-80C2-5BD20211507E.jpeg
 
Your oil has water in it. Never use water to heat the oil but now you figured out
If you have more raws made another batch but do it right this time. Test raws are cheap

Don't know if this test e raws have the common problem with the bad pip. Hope it doesn't because if it has you can't use that,very bad pip...
 
Hey everyone long time lurker of the forum and finally made a profile. Last week I made my first batch of test e. I followed this recipe:

20.4g of test e powder
1.6g BA
9.5gBB
66.1g MCT

I added the carrier oil and BB in with the powder and heated it up by putting water in a pan and putting the beaker in that (I know rookie mistake) stirred it with my rod and everything mixed together very well. I let it cool down and added BA. I filtered it using a .22 bottle top filter and everything came out really clear. I noticed a day later that the oil now looks slightly hazy. I added pictures of how it looks before and after. Thanks for any info. View attachment 141582
View attachment 141583
Yea that stinks, dont know if its worth fixing or can be. Do you have more raws?
 
I would attach a needle on stopper and put in oven at 100C to let water evaporate

man , me too in the past I did shitty brews without proper tools etc, and thanks to @ickyrica and other Meso members I switched to : hot stirring plate. don’t mess with pan water and shit. Buy a stirring hot plate and you ll be fine. I use bottle top filter 0.22 PVDF because lot of membranes got burned by BB and or BA.
I read that PVDF and PTFE (Teflon) are best at it.
Dont be a cheap fuck and buy proper shit man
 
I would attach a needle on stopper and put in oven at 100C to let water evaporate

man , me too in the past I did shitty brews without proper tools etc, and thanks to @ickyrica and other Meso members I switched to : hot stirring plate. don’t mess with pan water and shit. Buy a stirring hot plate and you ll be fine. I use bottle top filter 0.22 PVDF because lot of membranes got burned by BB and or BA.
I read that PVDF and PTFE (Teflon) are best at it.
Dont be a cheap fuck and buy proper shit man
You mentioned the stirring hot plate in one of my posts too. What is your preferred brand/make/model?
 
You mentioned the stirring hot plate in one of my posts too. What is your preferred brand/make/model?

mine is similar to this one..


I would go for Amazon because of their reliability and because I think Jeff Bezos should re gain first place over richest men in the world...

In the description of that stirring plate you read :

33802568-73C2-4363-B996-BA79EEBCFDB5.jpeg

so my thoughts about PTFE membranes.. sometimes gear get cloudy etc because of membrane that goes fucked up by chemicals... some uses Nylon but I read that Teflon and PVDF are the best so I will still use them..

My suggestion is: search realiable melting points of aas, but in general you don’t need to overcome 50 C degrees... mostly on Tren... Tren gets dark orange and then dark chocolate and then in the garbage , if exposed to serious heath.. i brew tren at 50 C and it’s perfect fine.

for @Bugsy123 , better solubilize your gear with BB only for first.. in the hot stirring plate.. and again don’t need to go over 50 C in most of cases... when you have crystal clear BB + Gear... let it cool down, and add your measured carrier, re warm a little and stir... when you re done and everything is fine, let the oil + BB + gear cool down and add your BA.. filter it properly and cleanly, and put it into sterile vials with sterile syringes/pipette...

a smart guy here suggested me to use 2% BA in homebrewing because we don’t have the same clean environment pharmas have (they use 1% BA) and it sounds reasonable to me.. it shouldn’t give problems.. I pinned 20% BA gear years ago since I made a big error, I injected something like 1 or 2 ml, very fuckin bad experience but don’t think 2% instead of 1% can give you problems
 
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Thanks for th
I would attach a needle on stopper and put in oven at 100C to let water evaporate

man , me too in the past I did shitty brews without proper tools etc, and thanks to @ickyrica and other Meso members I switched to : hot stirring plate. don’t mess with pan water and shit. Buy a stirring hot plate and you ll be fine. I use bottle top filter 0.22 PVDF because lot of membranes got burned by BB and or BA.
I read that PVDF and PTFE (Teflon) are best at it.
Dont be a cheap fuck and buy proper shit man
I would attach a needle on stopper and put in oven at 100C to let water evaporate

man , me too in the past I did shitty brews without proper tools etc, and thanks to @ickyrica and other Meso members I switched to : hot stirring plate. don’t mess with pan water and shit. Buy a stirring hot plate and you ll be fine. I use bottle top filter 0.22 PVDF because lot of membranes got burned by BB and or BA.
I read that PVDF and PTFE (Teflon) are best at it.
Dont be a cheap fuck and buy proper shit man
I would attach a needle on stopper and put in oven at 100C to let water evaporate

man , me too in the past I did shitty brews without proper tools etc, and thanks to @ickyrica and other Meso members I switched to : hot stirring plate. don’t mess with pan water and shit. Buy a stirring hot plate and you ll be fine. I use bottle top filter 0.22 PVDF because lot of membranes got burned by BB and or BA.
I read that PVDF and PTFE (Teflon) are best at it.
Dont be a cheap fuck and buy proper shit man
Thanks for the advice bro. I did some research unfortunately on reddit and followed the instructions there. It wasn’t until I came here I realized I’ve made a few mistakes. Lessons learned. I’ve already purchased a hot plate. I’m going to try the oven technique and see if that helps. Thanks again
 
mine is similar to this one..


I would go for Amazon because of their reliability and because I think Jeff Bezos should re gain first place over richest men in the world...

In the description of that stirring plate you read :

View attachment 141610

so my thoughts about PTFE membranes.. sometimes gear get cloudy etc because of membrane that goes fucked up by chemicals... some uses Nylon but I read that Teflon and PVDF are the best so I will still use them..

My suggestion is: search realiable melting points of aas, but in general you don’t need to overcome 50 C degrees... mostly on Tren... Tren gets dark orange and then dark chocolate and then in the garbage , if exposed to serious heath.. i brew tren at 50 C and it’s perfect fine.

for @Bugsy123 , better solubilize your gear with BB only for first.. in the hot stirring plate.. and again don’t need to go over 50 C in most of cases... when you have crystal clear BB + Gear... let it cool down, and add your measured carrier, re warm a little and stir... when you re done and everything is fine, let the oil + BB + gear cool down and add your BA.. filter it properly and cleanly, and put it into sterile vials with sterile syringes/pipette...

a smart guy here suggested me to use 2% BA in homebrewing because we don’t have the same clean environment pharmas have (they use 1% BA) and it sounds reasonable to me.. it shouldn’t give problems.. I pinned 20% BA gear years ago since I made a big error, I injected something like 1 or 2 ml, very fuckin bad experience but don’t think 2% instead of 1% can give you problems
So I just reheated the brew in the oven. Came out crystal clear! My question is should I add more BA? Not sure if it evaporated along with the water
 
Awesome that it worked. Nice call @FR0Z3N_B0MB34
From my understanding of BA, it wouldn’t evaporate. For 1, the boiling point is 205C (401F). And I also believe it being in suspension with oil, BB and raws, makes it more difficult for the BA to evaporate. I could be wrong obviously, just my thoughts.
 
Ok so water in oil heated wouldve seperated. You wouldve seen it floating around like bubbles. When oil has water in it it emulsifies and turns milky colored not just hazy. You mightve just had a crash. Reheating will help that if not solve the problem all together. I mean it takes some turbulance as well for the oil to mix with the water
 
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