bdg77
New Member
I think I have a pretty good method for a those who can't find s-type kits or just don't want to use one. I was racking my brain sorting through all the stuff you're going to find on this proceedure. And I think I found something that does the job well enough. If anyone wants to critique it, fine by me. It accually raised a couple more questions that will eventually need to answered. Ok rather than go over the whole process I'm just going to mention the parts that kind of differ from the usually instructions you might see. Without a kit you can do a quadruple rinse. The first just to get rid of the gunk and then 3 more to attempt to remove the EB. It's of some importance to use the least amount of methanol which should decrease each time and the right amount of really cold distilled H20 to get you're crystals back. I'm not sure if its better to error on the side of too much h20 SLOWLY dripped back or not. Now some people who's opinions sound totally solid swear by this. And you can even filter the final oil b4 adding BA,BB to reduce EB even more. All i know all that would take me at least a week and I would still be worrying about estro in product. Ok this is becoming too long so I'm going to cut to the chase. Rinse it once get rid of the gunk. What the hell rinse twice just for purity. Ok then here is where you add some NaOH. But how the heck much! I got recommendations from 0.5g per 1g T.P. (possibly more) down to like 0.1g for I think even more T.P. So I thought 0.5g would work for a 4g kit. Now they always say make a supersaturated solution. Which takes like 10g NaOH in, I forget a few cc's of H20. This I don't get couldn't you get add it or does it now disolve in methanol? Cause the level of purity it was at didn't take much heet and so the added h20 started making the tp fall out. Add some more methanol and this stops. It has something to do with the balance. So those are basically the questions I have now. How much NaOH per whatever and I don't think it's much at all. And then do you really need to supersaturate h20 and use that. Cause h20 can make the stuff fallout. Last thing that was unusual after letting it sit for the recommended hour and then rinsing 4.00g turned into 3.00g. It was pretty apparent in the first jarfull of rinse water. After that the 2nd to the 10th or whatever it was were clear. So why that small amount of lye caused that big loss is not clear. But it did get rid of the estro. As soon as I switched from the multiwash rinse batch to the new bottle the gyno issues subsided and are virtually gone, it's like the normal effects of aromatization. Sorry for the long read just thought that there might be some useful tidbits of info. I'm about ready to throw in the towel with syno. Fina's no prob but I need a new source cuz the syno is just too much hassle. Well I was pretty stoked when I saw the new forum announcement so hopefully that will help.
