Lets see your ride!

I'm confused :eek:

Let's see
Swap meet as in the sexual act or the various ones we have in imperial,niland and Calexico?

Which Denny's the one on
dogwood or the one on ocotillo?

Sprite and Chinese food?
Lucky's is the shit they have the best chink food around.

Awww this fool knows whats up!!! Luckys it is you fucking pimp, I better see some fucking brown eye. At least a tip anyways. Aint shit get past you, wtf cockblocker
 
91 mustang gt went from wrecked and salvaged to I drive it everyday. Still a work in progress but that's the fun part just working for the cash isn't..

Nice, that's how my car first started out.

My mom bought her first car in 2001 a Black Mustang brand new with like 10 dealer miles on it.

It got wrecked about ten years in and was given to me as my first car.
It wasn't a looker it had 200k miles already in it due to long commutes. The outside was banged up, no air bags, only one functioning mirror.

But it ran.

I fixed it up once I started getting paid.

I spent about 600 dollars to have the body fixed in Mexico.

It looks pretty decent now.
Has around 250k miles and still runs.

It has troubles going to SD or even LA but it gets me where I need to be.
 
All that counts bro.
Nice, that's how my car first started out.

My mom bought her first car in 2001 a Black Mustang brand new with like 10 dealer miles on it.

It got wrecked about ten years in and was given to me as my first car.
It wasn't a looker it had 200k miles already in it due to long commutes. The outside was banged up, no air bags, only one functioning mirror.

But it ran.

I fixed it up once I started getting paid.

I spent about 600 dollars to have the body fixed in Mexico.

It looks pretty decent now.
Has around 250k miles and still runs.

It has troubles going to SD or even LA but it gets me where I need to be.
 
any guys seen the new dick cepek's around?
I almost pulled the trigger and ordered some 35s last night...
may try a set of these or the IROKs
View attachment 27417
You know I have.
I love me some new grips. I'll be in the market soon as I'm just rounding off 65k on my BFG's.

The new Cepek is a tweener tire as their popular now days. In between mudders and all terrain. With looks to boot.

If it's a dd iroks you will hate especially when winter rolls around. What's the application?
 
You know I have.
I love me some new grips. I'll be in the market soon as I'm just rounding off 65k on my BFG's.

The new Cepek is a tweener tire as their popular now days. In between mudders and all terrain. With looks to boot.

If it's a dd iroks you will hate especially when winter rolls around. What's the application?

Farm truck/play...
I've got 8500 acres of mostly forested land in my backyard the state of Tn has purchased to develop into a multi-use recreation area.

I'm looking to take the F150 put Trailready beadlock 17s w/35s.
I want to go 37's but I think I can get out on the cheap by just
leveling 2.5 in the front 1in block in the back and the 35s will fit under there.
Truck rarely hits pavement anymore, but once I build it I may have to take it to the gym once a week ;)

The new Cepek may not be the one though bc I just read it's a 2ply side? I'm not looking to build a crawler but still. I think 35s on 17s will still get me up the hill, and look mean. Although there is some serious rock, most of the trail systems here will be dry stream beds, old logging roads with packed clay, and some holes. I want something to fuck around with without getting into it too deep..
35inbeadlocks.jpg
 
Farm truck/play...
I've got 8500 acres of mostly forested land in my backyard the state of Tn has purchased to develop into a multi-use recreation area.

I'm looking to take the F150 put Trailready beadlock 17s w/35s.
I want to go 37's but I think I can get out on the cheap by just
leveling 2.5 in the front 1in block in the back and the 35s will fit under there.
Truck rarely hits pavement anymore, but once I build it I may have to take it to the gym once a week ;)

The new Cepek may not be the one though bc I just read it's a 2ply side? I'm not looking to build a crawler but still. I think 35s on 17s will still get me up the hill, and look mean. Although there is some serious rock, most of the trail systems here will be dry stream beds, old logging roads with packed clay, and some holes. I want something to fuck around with without getting into it too deep..
View attachment 27445
2.5 " level will clear 35's on the late model f150's. I run a HBS 2.5 " on my 08 f150. I've tried 35's on 17's they look great problem is you gotta go 8" wide rim. Otherwise you'll be rubbing the UCA or the frame at full lockout. 17's are by far your best option to fit 35's successfully. But on an 8" wide rim you will have serious wear issues on road as the tire will balloon out on both sides and wear heavily in the middle.

Remember 35's only give you 1" extra ground clearance over 33's. Since axle to ground is the biggest factor in a successful off road run. I would go 33's like I have been. You can bomb around in that thing bottom out at full lock off camber it doesn't matter. They won't rub. Considering all this I suspect 33's are the best choice. Plus it's far better on the drive train and towing efficiency.

Now about the leveling kit...

A spacer like mine (HBS) exists to only limit DOWN TRAVEL. that's how it achieves the lift. So when they say it doesn't effect ride quality their full of shit as you lose almost all down travel in the springs. I would recommend a bilstein 5100 series at least upgrade to the 7100 series if possible. They come with snap grooves to lift the coil overs in to position giving you the same lift with improved ride. Rancho also makes a ready to go kit with springs already mounted on shock ready to be installed. Same price but the rancho is considered a lesser product because of the twin tube design.

Hit me up if you need anything else answered
 
@TANGO.ECHO.KILO
If your dead set on 35's at least look in to tire manufacturers that produce smaller sizes. For example:

BFG Goodrich. They have always been known to produce tires that are smaller than the actual size you paid for. There 305/65R17 is supposed to be 33"x12.5" but specs have it listed as 32.6" tall. There 315/70R17 is supposed to be 35"x12.5 but in reality it's 34.5 or so. Mount them on the wheel and they are even smaller. Many many manufacturers do this. Pisses you off but hey if you want 35's with a little chance to rub make sure you read specs.

Toyo and Interco (better known as super swamper) make tires exactly as stated. So a 33 is actually a 33. Problem is with a properly sized rim say 17"x9" which ideally is what you want will rub with 35's especially in an off road scenario. Most guys that level their trucks and put tires on them NEVER use them as intended so I'm telling you first hand you will have issues if you truly are offroading.
 
2.5 " level will clear 35's on the late model f150's. I run a HBS 2.5 " on my 08 f150. I've tried 35's on 17's they look great problem is you gotta go 8" wide rim. Otherwise you'll be rubbing the UCA or the frame at full lockout. 17's are by far your best option to fit 35's successfully. But on an 8" wide rim you will have serious wear issues on road as the tire will balloon out on both sides and wear heavily in the middle.

Remember 35's only give you 1" extra ground clearance over 33's. Since axle to ground is the biggest factor in a successful off road run. I would go 33's like I have been. You can bomb around in that thing bottom out at full lock off camber it doesn't matter. They won't rub. Considering all this I suspect 33's are the best choice. Plus it's far better on the drive train and towing efficiency.

Now about the leveling kit...

A spacer like mine (HBS) exists to only limit DOWN TRAVEL. that's how it achieves the lift. So when they say it doesn't effect ride quality their full of shit as you lose almost all down travel in the springs. I would recommend a bilstein 5100 series at least upgrade to the 7100 series if possible. They come with snap grooves to lift the coil overs in to position giving you the same lift with improved ride. Rancho also makes a ready to go kit with springs already mounted on shock ready to be installed. Same price but the rancho is considered a lesser product because of the twin tube design.

Hit me up if you need anything else answered
If I went with the Bilstein 5100 kit, the settings are .75, 1.5. 2.25? If I go 2.25 in the front and a 1in block in the back think it will sit dead level?

As far as the tires I'm pretty dead set on the 35's
(shit I wanna go 37s but Im not droppin that kind of $$$)
The trailready beadlock HD I plan on picking up come in a 17x8 and a 17x8.5.
I was planning on running the 17x8.5 on 35s or 315/70r17s
With the beadlocks I figured I could run low pressure, they'd wear better, and with the 17x8.5 I wouldnt rub too bad with some minor trimming except for maybe in reverse at full lockout...think that's wishful thinking? Any ideas on the spacing?

I understand your argument for the 33's, but too be honest I like the overstuffed look. 33's just dont fill enough but I know it will be a delicate balance.

EDIT: I ran the Maxxis Bighorn and loved em. They dont make them bigger than a 305/70 for 17in wheels. That's why I'm shopping a new rubber brand...I'm thinking some Intercos,Dick Cepek, or General and all those brands are going to be 315/70r17
 
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Rocking the Wolfsburg 1.8T. She's mean. Actually looking into a GLI at the moment though. German engineering is in my blood.

Always loved the way VWs looked.
So I bought a MKV GTI.
Damn thing had constant problems...never again.
 
If I went with the Bilstein 5100 kit, the settings are .75, 1.5. 2.25? If I go 2.25 in the front and a 1in block in the back think it will sit dead level?

As far as the tires I'm pretty dead set on the 35's
(shit I wanna go 37s but Im not droppin that kind of $$$)
The trailready beadlock HD I plan on picking up come in a 17x8 and a 17x8.5.
I was planning on running the 17x8.5 on 35s or 315/70r17s
With the beadlocks I figured I could run low pressure, they'd wear better, and with the 17x8.5 I wouldnt rub too bad with some minor trimming except for maybe in reverse at full lockout...think that's wishful thinking? Any ideas on the spacing?

I understand your argument for the 33's, but too be honest I like the overstuffed look. 33's just dont fill enough but I know it will be a delicate balance.
My '08 sits dead level with 2.5" HBS spacer. Do yourself a favor and measure the rake in your truck. My factory rake was 3" in the rear as compared to front as measured with a tape measure. Past 2008 ford reduced the aggressive rake so measure front and rear with a tape. Top of wheel well thru the hub to level ground and you'll get an idea what setting you'll need. Last thing you need is to be over level as you will have major issues especially off road from binding. The 1" in the rear is completely unnecessary as I doubt you'll ever rub there. If you ever tow heavy you'll hate your leveling kit and the extra inch in the rear doesn't help as the truck is already bottomed out in the front creating a very light front end when loaded. But remember ford has the burliest front end components bar none for IFS applications so at least your good in that department. Hell I'm just about to turn 100,000 and still sitting on all original front end components and I've had the kit on since new and larger tires to boot. I think you may have seen some soft core videos of mine. I promise you this is no road queen. It gets me to work, to play and the boat to the lake. A real man's truck.

Now about the rubbing.

Beadlock are illegal in all 50 states so being on road could mean a potential ticket. If it's purely for off road use then who cares but you will rub. When they say trimming they mean the black valence. That can be cut with a razor blade. What you can't cut is the UCA, frame and the wheel well sheet metal. Get that truck off camber and I guarantee you will be crying when them 35's tear your clear coat up.

Offset and spacing...

The Ford stock rims come 5.5" back spacing. Back spacing and offset are two completely different things. Go more back spacing and you will rub the frame. Go less back spacing and you rub sheet metal. This lesson could take all day so I won't dive too deep. That's why I'm pushing 33's. Problem solved. With 33 you can run any manufacturers rubber any rim size no problem. Get it in 9" wide and i promise you'll love the look. Plus you'll have plenty of horses to let loose for that almighty power. 35's will make that beast feel like a 4 cylinder especially when you need it most...in thick mud and hill climbs
 
91 mustang gt went from wrecked and salvaged to I drive it everyday. Still a work in progress but that's the fun part just working for the cash isn't..

I used to have this old chrysler laser. Paid $200 for it and built it back up from the junkyard. Theres something special about riding around in that car you put a lot of work into.
 

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