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Need advice from car guys

Perrin Aybara

Perrin Aybara

Member
10+ Year Member
Right when I pulled into the gym this morning my car shifted down on the driver's side. I got out and my tire was tilted in. I got under it and can see where a bolt and bushing had come out.

Here's the driver's side

20180805_123247.jpg

Here's the passenger side that's still intact

20180805_123224.jpg

Is this as simple as replacing that bushing and nut? I left my car at the gym for now. If I have to have it towed I'd rather wait till tomorrow to avoid weekend rates. If it's something simple I can fix to at least get it home I'd rather do that though. I've never done any front end work, but I don't see anything else wrong with it.
 
You should just be able to put it back together with a new washer and nut. Look at the 2 places I circled for wear. If it was running loose for awhile they may not fit together right. It's a tapered fit and needs to wedge together tight.

20180805_131055.jpeg
 
rubisean said:
Who put the lift on your truck?
At best I would replace the upper ball joint.

You may be able to get a nut on the ball joint if the threads are not buggered up.

And for Pete's sake put a cotter pin in the ball joint .
Click to expand...

It's a 1963 Chevy II. I had it worked on last year and I'm thinking they didn't replace the cotter pins and it must've vibrated off.

D-max said:
You should just be able to put it back together with a new washer and nut. Look at the 2 places I circled for wear. If it was running loose for awhile they may not fit together right. It's a tapered fit and needs to wedge together tight.

View attachment 95334
Click to expand...

I'd really just at least like to get back home in the garage where I can deal with whenever. What about the bushing? Won't it need that to drive?
 
Perrin Aybara said:
It's a 1963 Chevy II. I had it worked on last year and I'm thinking they didn't replace the cotter pins and it must've vibrated off.



I'd really just at least like to get back home in the garage where I can deal with whenever. What about the bushing? Won't it need that to drive?
Click to expand...
I think your calling bushing what I'm calling a washer. The flat silver thing under the nut? You can get those from a parts store. And yes definitely put cotter pins thru all those castle nuts.
 
D-max said:
I think your calling bushing what I'm calling a washer. The flat silver thing under the nut? You can get those from a parts store. And yes definitely put cotter pins thru all those castle nuts.
Click to expand...

No, I see the washer under the castle nut. I meant this piece here.

20180805_132753.jpg

I'm gonna run by NAPA and see if they everything.
 
Perrin Aybara said:
No, I see the washer under the castle nut. I meant this piece here.

View attachment 95337

I'm gonna run by NAPA and see if they everything.
Click to expand...
Oh that's just a rubber boot to keep dirt and crap out of the ball joint. Wont need it to get you home.

If you just buy a new upper ball joint itll come with everything, including a cotter pin.

It also looks like it's a screw in ball joint, so it shouldn't be too hard to replace it.
 
D-max said:
Oh that's just a rubber boot to keep dirt and crap out of the ball joint. Wont need it to get you home.

If you just buy a new upper ball joint itll come with everything, including a cotter pin.

It also looks like it's a screw in ball joint, so it shouldn't be too hard to replace it.
Click to expand...

Just looked and seems to be a pretty cheap part to replace. Luckily it happened in a parking lot where it'll be easy to work on and not while I was going 65mph on the way to the gym.

Thanks, @D-max and @rubisean will update tomorrow when I go work on it. When it happened I was thinking tow bill and repair bill, might get off for like $50 or less now.
 
Good that you got yourself and your car home safely. That must been one badass old car you got and it's one year older than me!

Would been a dangerous situation if the wheel came entirely off the car when going at highway speed.
 
Perrin Aybara said:
Car is home safely in my garage. Was able to get another nut on far enough to get it home, but the thread is ruined. Picked up a replacement ball joint earlier and will get that on when I've got some free time.
Click to expand...
If theirs no hole in the ball joint stud for a cotter pin you need lock nuts on there not castle nuts. Make sure the new ball joint is designed to fit those tubular control arms.
 
Kakarot said:
If theirs no hole in the ball joint stud for a cotter pin you need lock nuts on there not castle nuts. Make sure the new ball joint is designed to fit those tubular control arms.
Click to expand...

It's got the hole for the cotter pins. Haven't opened the new ball joint yet.
 
Whoever put those castle nuts back on should be punched in the face. They didn't put the cotter pin back in either side. That
Should never happen! Make sure you put a cotter pin in the other side as well so you don't have a repeat event.
 
Kakarot said:
It's on your nova right? Most aftermarket control arms use a non factory...or factory for something newer balljoint that may or may not need to be pressed in.
Click to expand...

The guy at NAPA said a pipe wrench will open it up where I can swap it and then tighten it back.

Oregongearhead said:
Ive seen pics of @Perrin Aybara "63 Chevy II and its pretty bitchin...love those early Nova"s :cool:....now fix that ball joint ! :D ~Ogh
Click to expand...

I'm a couple states away for work at the moment. Soon.

HIGHRISK said:
Whoever put those castle nuts back on should be punched in the face. They didn't put the cotter pin back in either side. That
Should never happen! Make sure you put a cotter pin in the other side as well so you don't have a repeat event.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it was a friend of my brother offered to do some work cheap awhile back. Was hurting for money at the time.
 
Perrin Aybara said:
The guy at NAPA said a pipe wrench will open it up where I can swap it and then tighten it back.



I'm a couple states away for work at the moment. Soon.



Yeah, it was a friend of my brother offered to do some work cheap awhile back. Was hurting for money at the time.
Click to expand...
Not sure what the guy at napa meant by that. Never used a pipe wrench to replace a balljoint. They look pressed in and probably have a snap ring you have to take off first. Autozone (along with most other parts stores) have a loan/rent a tool program, you'll need the ball joint tool they have to make your life easier.
 
Kakarot said:
Not sure what the guy at napa meant by that. Never used a pipe wrench to replace a balljoint. They look pressed in and probably have a snap ring you have to take off first. Autozone (along with most other parts stores) have a loan/rent a tool program, you'll need the ball joint tool they have to make your life easier.
Click to expand...

He said there was a tool, but they didn't have one and a large pipe wrench would work.

20180808_213030.jpg

Unless I misunderstood he said that top part would unscrew and the ball joint would come out. Everyone else says what you said though about needing to press it.
 
Perrin Aybara said:
He said there was a tool, but they didn't have one and a large pipe wrench would work.

View attachment 95553

Unless I misunderstood he said that top part would unscrew and the ball joint would come out. Everyone else says what you said though about needing to press it.
Click to expand...
They're not threaded but you might get lucky (really lucky) if you turned it with a wrench while popping it with a hammer(preferably a dead blow hammer). Personally I'd find another parts store and rent the tool.lol
 
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