test prop... it isnt that easy

ROOSTA

New Member
I'm new to meso and homebrewing...I been a lurker for a long time. After getting bunk gear, 1 infection and money stolen...i decided to research, read and read some more and buy all supplies needed. One vet who has been in the game since the 80's guided me carefully.

I have brewed test e....no issues...brewed mast e...no issues but I did question the melting point...i have labmax coming so I will test and post my results. So far in on week 2...500mg test 250mg mast e...horny...erections at random feeling great..no pip at all...

I made some test prop at 100mg...going to damn fast and added 35ml of gso instead of 15ml and it weakened it to 88mg...during the brewing all the other raws melted well with no issues...the prop...you must have it at the exact 118-122 to melt everything...if not you will have hardened test prop on the inside of the beaker and the stirring rod...now do not turn the heat up too damn high or the mix will smoke and ruin your gear. Gradually turn the heat up and stir slowly to distribute the hear in the beaker to break up the hardened raw....once it is all melted take off heat plate and continue to stir until all the swirls are gone. Let cool then add to vials
 
Dissolving the powders doesn't have anything to do with "melting it" or the melting point of the hormone. A little heat just helps it dissolve a bit faster. If you have to use heat to get it into solution, then it's not going to hold in solution after it all cools down again, it'll crash.
 
Dissolving the powders doesn't have anything to do with "melting it" or the melting point of the hormone. A little heat just helps it dissolve a bit faster. If you have to use heat to get it into solution, then it's not going to hold in solution after it all cools down again, it'll crash.

? Mine held up for 2 weeks after I brewed it.

I'm not understanding how you stated dissolving powder doesn't have anything to do with melting it? Without the proper temperature you can't dissolve/ melt the powder..it would just be powder or paste..

Maybe I'm missing what you are saying...could you explain better
 
? Mine held up for 2 weeks after I brewed it.

I'm not understanding how you stated dissolving powder doesn't have anything to do with melting it? Without the proper temperature you can't dissolve/ melt the powder..it would just be powder or paste..

Maybe I'm missing what you are saying...could you explain better


When i made my prop i had the oil at 50 to 60 degrees and it dissolved perfectly fine, it was clear as, held to this day and was smooth to inject.

I dare say your raws are contaminated to say the least
 
I'm not understanding how you stated dissolving powder doesn't have anything to do with melting it?

I am no homebrewer but I believe what they are referring to is that it is the solvents that bring the powder into solution with the oil, not heat. Heat might increase the maximum solute levels but once cooled you would get powder precipitating back out, crashing.
 
I am no homebrewer but I believe what they are referring to is that it is the solvents that bring the powder into solution with the oil, not heat. Heat might increase the maximum solute levels but once cooled you would get powder precipitating back out, crashing.

Ok...makes sense how you stated it
 
When i made my prop i had the oil at 50 to 60 degrees and it dissolved perfectly fine, it was clear as, held to this day and was smooth to inject.

I dare say your raws are contaminated to say the least
So your saying your prop dissolved at 50-60 degrees?
 
you can heat it a lot more than 122f without degrading your gear. i know some big time ugl's that heat it to atleast 250f. i heat mine until the oil is swirling in the beaker and let it continue for about 10 minutes. now i use 100% EO, but even before when i used gso i never had a batch crash. gear has always been very good and no pip. actually, now that i think about it one batch of prop had pip, but this is like in 10 years. not bragging, just making a point of fact. heat that shit a bit. don't be scared. and if your not allergic to EO... git some.
 
It will desolve without heat but I use heat to sterilize it before the filtering ...

If you add the BB and Raw together and let it sit, it should desolve so I hear ...
I know the formula so I add the raw, some oil and BB/BA then heat and add more oil as it heats ...
then I heat it very hot
And shut off stove and let sit to cool
 
The heating will help it settle in faster and kill the bacteria spores and viruses and WIll NOT kill or destroy or burn the raw hormone ..

M
 
Heat will in tease the solubility characteristics of the solution allowing higher concentrations or quicker time to dissolve. Your solution will only crash after heating if you have surpassed the saturation limit I believe it's called. Otherwise it'll stay in solution fine.
 
BTW how did you get that infection and what was done to show it was an infection? ...
besides the redness heat and PIP...
 
The infection came from a ugl so called pharmaceutical company. Yes I know...there isn't a such thing and I learned the hard way. It was minor...my left thigh started having serious pain...i thought it was pip...after 2 days I felt bad...no energy and the injection site was warm to the touch. Went to the ER and was prescribed some antibiotics
 
Without using heat, I pour the power and solvents in a 100 ml vial. I complete the brewing process using the tried and true water bath method. I have never had a batch crash on me, and I have never had an occassion where water gets into the brew.
 
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