Water in mast e

I brewed up some mast e and I did a water bath cause I got lazy. Now I have cloudy mast e. I’ve brewed the same batch and it was fine before. So what’s the best way to rid of the water in the mast?
 
One could try to cool, what is likely an emulsion at this point, to determine if the water and oil separate.

However as @Eman opined your product IS CONTAMINATED and should find the nearest trash can if water entered the OIL/AAS mixture, unless you’re willing to risk your ass to a nice abscess.

Jim
 
I brewed up some mast e and I did a water bath cause I got lazy. Now I have cloudy mast e. I’ve brewed the same batch and it was fine before. So what’s the best way to rid of the water in the mast?
Depending how much moisture you have will determine if it’s worth saving. Dry Heat cycles 15 minutes at 250* could get rid of the moisture. If you see it go clear with heat you might have a chance. If it doesn’t then you’re screwed. Throw it. It’s tedious process. Good luck
 
Yep evaporation may also be worth a try BUT since the bacteria will remain in the oil/aas mixture, filtering is as must

Finally bear in mind ONE ED VISIT to drain/treat an abscess will far exceed the cost of any brew


Jim
 
Throw it away and make a new batch without a water bath.

I don't understand how doing a water bath is easier than using a hot plate...
I would throw it if it was test or something cheap but unfortunately it’s about $300 in mast raws. Im going try to salvage it by getting the water out and re-filtering it.
 
Depending how much moisture you have will determine if it’s worth saving. Dry Heat cycles 15 minutes at 250* could get rid of the moisture. If you see it go clear with heat you might have a chance. If it doesn’t then you’re screwed. Throw it. It’s tedious process. Good luck
I forgot to mention it came out of the water bath looking very clear/normal. It’s only when it went through the filter it went cloudy.

So I’m going to freeze it and see if it’s even water. But if I use the oven at 250 I would use convection and let the air circulate right?

1DB6A495-7954-4707-B241-207252D2CEE7.jpeg

Mast on the left test e on the right
 
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I think you are going to kind of chase your tail if you attempt to freeze it. It's going to crash and you're not going to know what's raws and what's H2O.

Low heat makes the most sense to me to actually extract it... But, that may cause an issue with solvents.

I understand you want to salvage it due to cost but honestly, I'd take it as a lesson learned. Hope it works out for you though... Stay away from the water bath method!!
 
Don’t fucken freeze it for Christ sakes. Convection oven yes. Since it’s vailed make sure you vent each one before placing into heat. You may run into a problem with the plastic lur lock melting. Therefor drop the temp a bit to 220*. You have to vent the vail with a needle and then clip the plastic lur lock end with some wire cutters. I’m not sure if the plastic end of the needle will with stand that heat.

Another option would to dump all them back into a sterile beaker and heat like that.

Like I said this process is tedious. Take some trouble shooting to fix. You seem a little green at this no offense. You might want to trash it before you end up with a swollen red knot. Good luck man hope you fix it or learn from it at least
 
In the future. Hot plate and magnetic stirrer. Priceless if this is what you are doing. SH-2 Hot Plate Magnetic Stirrer Mixer Dual Control with 1 inch Stir Bar (New Style)
 
Rebrew and warm (don't overheat) for some 15-30 minutes to allow water to evaporate. Refilter.
Next time use an OIL bath.
 
Update: I tried freezing a bottle to see if anything would happen. Absolutely nothing happened and the bottle looked the same coming out as it did going in. Didn’t crash.

I tried the oven at 250f for 30min. It did work. It became super clear/normal. But when the oil cooled to room temperature it got cloudy again :confused: I’m not sure why that would happen? Next I’ll try a second re-filter for shits and giggles.
 
Update: I tried freezing a bottle to see if anything would happen. Absolutely nothing happened and the bottle looked the same coming out as it did going in. Didn’t crash.

I tried the oven at 250f for 30min. It did work. It became super clear/normal. But when the oil cooled to room temperature it got cloudy again :confused: I’m not sure why that would happen? Next I’ll try a second re-filter for shits and giggles.

What type of filter are you using?
 
If the Raw's are too expensive to dump the batch, why would you slack in brewing it to begin with?
When I first started I did water baths all the time never had a problem and it’s still not the problem in this case. My hot plate was already in use. Very weird I can give the oil a little heat and it’s clear then when it’s cools it’s cloudy.
 
Not really.

I'm sure the caps on the vials are tight, but not close to a perfect seal. Steam + Oil.

I'd still just dump it. You're ass though, so best of luck with it.
 
PVDF
Raws from PPL
Brewed at 250mg/ml
10% EO
10% BB
1% BA

Also I pinned half a CC and it’s been 3 days. Not much to note.

Now that you’ve posted your recipe, I think it’s crashing. 10%BB is pretty low for 250mg/ml. You can try adding another 5-10%BB or else just heat it before every injection.
 
Now that you’ve posted your recipe, I think it’s crashing. 10%BB is pretty low for 250mg/ml. You can try adding another 5-10%BB or else just heat it before every injection.

Does seem like it's crashing if heat gets it into clear solution and then it falls. I don't use EO but Mast E at 18% BB and 1-2% BA works at 200mg/ml. You are at 250mg/ml. See if BB increase can salvage.

For what it's worth I see a lot of guys getting fancy going for non-standard higher concentrations or blends and messing stuff up. As a rule it seems to be the inexperienced ones. Another 50mg/ml is meaningless if you have to dump your batch. Just go with a standard recipe that everyone knows holds perfectly, hot plate w/ stirrer, preferably bottle top filter to media bottle...voila.
 
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