master.on
New Member
Honor those who deserve honor
XKawn is the best brewer on the web, bar none.
From searching his posts to learn I've compilated a few of his great answers:
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ANADROL, SUSPENSION:
No heating. heating would be for making a liquid solution (completely dissolved into liquid). what you would be making is a suspension . imagine a snow globe affect. Shake the liquid/powder mixture before each use to temporarily mix the products immediately before drawing with a oral syringe and using. here is an example of what I would do. if I had 60ml bottles I would fill with one with 60 ml of water. visually mark the bottle, empty, dry. now I know where the 60ml point is on all my bottles. fill them half way with ora plus and add desired amount of raw powder. I would shake well then fill them the rest of the way with the ora plus and there you have it.
I think the lower the dose the more accurate you can be. I, personally, go about 25 to 30 mg per ml.
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BEAKERS, WASHING:
I wash beakers very well with a bleach solution and then wash again with soap water. Place upside down on hot plate and heat until completely dry.
clean the beaker very well. i use a bleach solution (mix of water and about 10% bleach) to wash it, then i wash it with a dish soap and water then rinse very well. place beaker on electric stove and let it heat the F up and dry at the same time.
No. Doesn't hurt to be sterile, but over kill. Your product and everything it comes into contact with after being pushed through the filter needs to be sterile. I clean all my glassware very, very well but stop short of sterilization.
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BEAKER, WATER CLOUDINESS:
If it's water related you can put it in a beaker in the oven at about 300f for about 30 minutes and it should evaporate the water. Should fix your problem.
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BENZYL ALCOHOL, BENZYL BENZOATE: MAXIMUM CONCENTRATION:
The way I see it is if you need 20% bb or more you need to just think about lowering your dosage. Between both the bb and ba it shouldn't be over 20%. This is a fact. Says so right there on the Internets.
I use 1%. Most people probably use 2%. Anything more than 2% is just silly, imo. (BA)
Oh, I agree. I actually use 19/1. I'm just saying it should have held with that amount of bb if it were test prop.
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CRASHED GEAR, APPEARANCE:
You tell us, lol. Could be moisture, could be crashed. Hard to tell. Seems every compound reacts a bit differently when crashed. I've seen cloudy swirls, cloudy, granules and even what looks like crystal spikes. Moisture won't hurt you, crashed will cause pip. Either way put a needle in it and throw it in the oven at about 200-225 Ishmael for about 15-20 minutes.
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DANABOL, INJECTABLE:
If you can't get ethanol/everclear then I know it holds in solution using EO. Just made a blend of test prop and dbol. I only went 50mg/ml prop and 25mg/ml dbol and easily holding so I have to imagine 50 mg/ml dbol alone will hold fine.
I'd try reheating it. Heat it pretty good. I've never brewed dbol at 50mg, but I have a blend of 25mg dbol with 50mg test prop that worked out pretty darn well. I use 100% EO, though. I'm sure I could go a bit higher and I probably will.
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DANABOL: INJECTABLE DBOL + ADROL BREW:
So kap, you brewed 100mg per ml? 50mg anadrol plus 50mg of dbol per ml?
sounds painful, man. Hope it works out.
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DIANABOL: INJECTABLE DBOL + T PROP BREW:
I made a 25mg dbol and 50mg test prop per ml. Completely painless. Wanted to bump it up to like 35/75 see how that works. I think that would be a good daily dose. Next time i go to the store i think i'll get some no ester products and work on a pre workout product with tren, test and an injectable oral mix.
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EQIPOISE, RECIPE:
You can definitely add another 100mg to dilute it. Sucks but it will work. If it was me and it was for personal use only I would throw 250 ml on there and pin and try. What's that, 150mg/ml at 4.5% ba?. Folks used to use 5% back in the day. I only use 1%. 3% is still used often today. Kind of out dated, but still used often. As for the BB there is no reason in the world to use it for EQ unless your using gso or some other thick oil and you want to thin it out.
Oh, and i dont use bb for test e or eq. Both products i brew at 330mg/ml. That is my 300mg plus my standard 10% over.
Yes, same procedure. The only thing that changes for me is i don't use bb for test e or eq.
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EQUIPOISE, WEIGHING:
I take a couple credit cards on each side of the bag and slide it to the coner wher i have a hole in the bag. All comes out and pretty easy. Tare out your beaker on the scale and add eq while on the scale for an accurate reading. Easy Peasy.
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ETHYL OLEATE, ALLERGY:
I find it to be a very small amount of folks that are allergic. I've only personally seen one person that had issues with EO. The vast majority of folks have a very smooth reaction to it. Further more i've never seen any proof that there are any negative affects medically. Best ug i ever used, before i brewed my own, was 100% EO. personally, i think all the negative talk about it is just regurgitation from person to person. Where's the science?
According to that, even if you take every case at being an allergic reaction and not something else, that only claims a 4% allergic reaction. This is your definition of poison?
I get that you won't change your mind, but to regurgitate that EO is poison because a very small number of people have a reaction to it is dissengenuous at best. Personally, ive seen a larger number of people have bad reactions to mct oil than ethyl oleate. I couldn't fathom calling it a poison.
Depends on the recipe. EO will help a compound go in to and stay in solution. A small amount of people have reactions to EO and should stay away from it, but we're talking just a couple percent.
I'd say more people have bad reactions to mct oil than eo. Hard to say why your getting pip from your source. Many factors involved. If you want more of a sure thing go GSO and a simple ratio of 1% ba and 18% bb. Either way just brew in small amounts in the beginning. I've seen people brew Thier whole order of raws in one sitting and fuck up.
Many an argument over EO. imo, it is a great solvent. very, very few people have a reaction to it. those that don't love it.
I've only met one person personally that doesn't tolerate eo well. I use 100% eo in all my gear. I love it. You can get a higher amount of product to hold in solution and with less pip if you tolerate it well. There's only one way to find out. Also, the carrier is very thin so you can easily use a 27g needle to pin with.
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ETHYL OEATE, GRADE:
Med lab supply has usp grade. Now you guys are trying to make it sound like folks are using just junk, lol. Once again I say show me anything scientific that says EO is unsafe. Pharmaceutical companies use it in injectable products and the allergic reactions are very, very minimal. Not trying to sway you guys into using. Just trying to make it known to those who are not in the know that the negative comments about EO are nothing more than false broscience.
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ETHYL OLEATE, IMPROVING SOLUBILITY:
Depends on the recipe. EO will help a compound go in to and stay in solution. A small amount of people have reactions to EO and should stay away from it, but we're talking just a couple percent.
I love EO. never had a problem with it melting anything inside my body nor have I heard of anyone being fucked up by EO. Before I started home brewing, the best gear I tried was 100% EO. I use 100% EO and don't have a problem with pip in any gear I make nor do I have a problem with any of my compounds crashing. Been brewing for many, many years.
I've only met one person personally that doesn't tolerate eo well. I use 100% eo in all my gear. I love it. You can get a higher amount of product to hold in solution and with less pip if you tolerate it well. There's only one way to find out. Also, the carrier is very thin so you can easily use a 27g needle to pin with.
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FILTERS, BOTTLE TOP FILTERS CHOICE:
500ml whatman zapcap .2um filters at med lab supply.
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FILTERS, BOTTLETOP VS SYRINGE:
Well, going from syringe filter to sterile sealed vial there's no process in between to contaminate your product. But then again if you are good at what your doing and take the necessary steps to maintain sterility then the point is moot.
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FILTERS: CAULKING GUN TO PRESS SYRINGES:
Go buy a caulking gun for like 4 bucks. A 60cc syringe will fit in there with 40 to 50ml (depending on syringe brand) and filter warm. If not you'll wish you had.
It will fucking suck... you don't have to rig anything up. Just put the filled 60cc syringe inside the gun (filter will be just outside the bottom lip of the gun) and squeeze. Nothing fancy.
With a 60cc syringe, .2um filters and a caulking gun I can fill a 10ml vial in seconds with little effort. So much easier using a syringe filter for anything under 1 or 2 hundred ml rather than setting up the pump system.
Lol, you tried to do it by hand? With I thin carrier like mct, keep it very warm (not hot) and a caulking gun it goes very fast. A fast stream. Never timed it, but probably 20 to 30 seconds a 10ml vial.
Yes, with a whatman .2um pvdf filter about 30 seconds a vial. With Medium hand pressure and at a very warm temperature it streams into the vial.
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FILTERS, FLUSHING:
t's all going down the same hole. In whichever order you want to do it is up to you. Just I wouldn't Add the powder first. As far as flushing the filter that too is up to you. Do you want to spend an extra few minutes and add an extra step to save a few cents? I mean, if your brewing a few ml then you may want to do it. If your brewing a few hundred then maybe not.
Yes, this is true. You can flush like 2ml through filter and get the 2ml that is trapped by replacing it with the pure oil. I do not. It's not worth my time. Depending on your carrier, whether your using a caulking gun and whether your fingers are still willing to push/squeeze.
If you were going to do that I would run BA through it instead of rubbing alcohol. I would do it both after you used it the first time and before you use it again.
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FILTERS, NON-STERILE:
You can run a few ml of ba through non sterile filters if you need to. Wait a bit then use. I'd discard the first few ml of oil if you do. Never heard of anyone baking afterwards, though.
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FILTERS: PDEF ETHYL OLEATE RESISTANCE:
You plan on using around 10% eo? Using pdef syringe filters i've done products with 100% eo and never had a problem.
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FILTERS, REFILTERING UGL GEAR:
man, if i thought it was necessary to refilter gear i bought i'd be buying from another source. but if i had to refilter for some reason i'd get some 50ml jugs, a 100ml beaker, 23 and 18g needles, 60cc syringe, a caulking gun and some alcohol swabs. clean the beaker very well. i use a bleach solution (mix of water and about 10% bleach) to wash it, then i wash it with a dish soap and water then rinse very well. place beaker on electric stove and let it heat the F up and dry at the same time. the 18g for drawing and injecting and 23g for venting. draw 100ml and place in the beaker and let gear heat to a very warm (not hot). draw half the gear, place filter on then syringe. add 23g to 50ml jug for venting. you'll have to start the filtering by hand because you'll only get the 60cc syringe in the caulking gun with about 48ml in it. then filter at a very warm temp. you can do the whole 100ml with one filter. now you have 2 50ml jugs of refiltered gear.
Oh, p.s.
In reference to my post you'll want sterile sealed 50ml vials.
oh, this reminds me of one more step. keep a 3ml syringe with about 2ml of oil on the side. brand or kind of oil doesn't matter. when your done disconnect the 60cc syringe from the filter and place the 3cc syringe on it and push the 2ml of extra oil into the syringe. that will push the 2 to 3ml of oil that was left in the filter into your vial. now your filter is full of the hormoneless (that sounded kind of gay) oil and you don't lose any product.
i usually don't do this step. brewing a few hundred ml at a time you usually don't care about the last few ml. but if you want to save the last few drop, lol, then this is how you'd do it.
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GH, HOMEBREWING:
Raw powder hgh??? Sheeeit. Dont we all wish.
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HEATING, HOT PLATE, DAMAGING POWDERS:
You can use a thermometer. you could affect it, but we're talking somewhere above 600f. I've been doing this for quite a while so it's kind of like muscle memory to me. I set my hot plate at a certain temp and do everything by touch and sight. I doubt my oil reaches over the desired 250f that I set as standard. When the beaker is on the hot plate you can see the oil slightly swirl around. Basically mixing itsself. I then turn off the hot plate and allow the beaker to remain on the heated plate and allow it to slowly reduce its temp. While the oil is still very warm I then filter making it easier for your product to move through the filter.
I.avoid water baths. Water and oil don't mix. There's absolutely no reason in the world to use a water bath. As far as heating, there's no reason you can't warm it. I wouldn't heat it very hot, but 200 degrees ain't gonna hurt the hormone.
Apprx 250f will not degrade your product and will make things much easier and faster. Keep it pretty warm while filtering.
Heat makes it all so much faster and easier. There's really no down side to using heat unless you go really high temps and then the product starts to degrade. But we're talking temps of over 5 - 6 hundred degrees f. If you heat at temps of about 250f your powder will disolve in minutes and you can see the oil swirling arond a bit mixing and disolving product. Let it warm to a temp where you can comfortably hold the beaker and feel it's warmth and filter at that temp for a much easier filtering process.
First off, when you heated the shit out of the one batch and got the black residue at the bottom you probably burnt some of your raws. Remember, when your raws aren't completely dissolved that means you still have powder in the mix and can be burnt. Some will say no heat, but just warm it. You should be able to comfortably pick up the beaker and it feel just a little bit warm.
As for the sludge. Shit, I don't know. Water would give a look like that but not really be sludgy. You can try filtering it, putting it back in the beaker and baking it for about 30 to 45 minutes on about 300 to 350f. Not optimal, but you may salvage your product with minor degradation.
Oh, and then filter again before bottling in vials.
I warm my tren as I'm brewing. I keep it warm as I filter. not hot. I can pick the beaker with warm product up with my hands and it will feel nicely warm, not hot. being warm help dissolve the powder and helps filter much easier and will not damage the product.
XKawn is the best brewer on the web, bar none.
From searching his posts to learn I've compilated a few of his great answers:
-------
ANADROL, SUSPENSION:
No heating. heating would be for making a liquid solution (completely dissolved into liquid). what you would be making is a suspension . imagine a snow globe affect. Shake the liquid/powder mixture before each use to temporarily mix the products immediately before drawing with a oral syringe and using. here is an example of what I would do. if I had 60ml bottles I would fill with one with 60 ml of water. visually mark the bottle, empty, dry. now I know where the 60ml point is on all my bottles. fill them half way with ora plus and add desired amount of raw powder. I would shake well then fill them the rest of the way with the ora plus and there you have it.
I think the lower the dose the more accurate you can be. I, personally, go about 25 to 30 mg per ml.
-------
BEAKERS, WASHING:
I wash beakers very well with a bleach solution and then wash again with soap water. Place upside down on hot plate and heat until completely dry.
clean the beaker very well. i use a bleach solution (mix of water and about 10% bleach) to wash it, then i wash it with a dish soap and water then rinse very well. place beaker on electric stove and let it heat the F up and dry at the same time.
No. Doesn't hurt to be sterile, but over kill. Your product and everything it comes into contact with after being pushed through the filter needs to be sterile. I clean all my glassware very, very well but stop short of sterilization.
-------
BEAKER, WATER CLOUDINESS:
If it's water related you can put it in a beaker in the oven at about 300f for about 30 minutes and it should evaporate the water. Should fix your problem.
-------
BENZYL ALCOHOL, BENZYL BENZOATE: MAXIMUM CONCENTRATION:
The way I see it is if you need 20% bb or more you need to just think about lowering your dosage. Between both the bb and ba it shouldn't be over 20%. This is a fact. Says so right there on the Internets.
I use 1%. Most people probably use 2%. Anything more than 2% is just silly, imo. (BA)
Oh, I agree. I actually use 19/1. I'm just saying it should have held with that amount of bb if it were test prop.
-------
CRASHED GEAR, APPEARANCE:
You tell us, lol. Could be moisture, could be crashed. Hard to tell. Seems every compound reacts a bit differently when crashed. I've seen cloudy swirls, cloudy, granules and even what looks like crystal spikes. Moisture won't hurt you, crashed will cause pip. Either way put a needle in it and throw it in the oven at about 200-225 Ishmael for about 15-20 minutes.
-------
DANABOL, INJECTABLE:
If you can't get ethanol/everclear then I know it holds in solution using EO. Just made a blend of test prop and dbol. I only went 50mg/ml prop and 25mg/ml dbol and easily holding so I have to imagine 50 mg/ml dbol alone will hold fine.
I'd try reheating it. Heat it pretty good. I've never brewed dbol at 50mg, but I have a blend of 25mg dbol with 50mg test prop that worked out pretty darn well. I use 100% EO, though. I'm sure I could go a bit higher and I probably will.
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DANABOL: INJECTABLE DBOL + ADROL BREW:
So kap, you brewed 100mg per ml? 50mg anadrol plus 50mg of dbol per ml?
sounds painful, man. Hope it works out.
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DIANABOL: INJECTABLE DBOL + T PROP BREW:
I made a 25mg dbol and 50mg test prop per ml. Completely painless. Wanted to bump it up to like 35/75 see how that works. I think that would be a good daily dose. Next time i go to the store i think i'll get some no ester products and work on a pre workout product with tren, test and an injectable oral mix.
-------
EQIPOISE, RECIPE:
You can definitely add another 100mg to dilute it. Sucks but it will work. If it was me and it was for personal use only I would throw 250 ml on there and pin and try. What's that, 150mg/ml at 4.5% ba?. Folks used to use 5% back in the day. I only use 1%. 3% is still used often today. Kind of out dated, but still used often. As for the BB there is no reason in the world to use it for EQ unless your using gso or some other thick oil and you want to thin it out.
Oh, and i dont use bb for test e or eq. Both products i brew at 330mg/ml. That is my 300mg plus my standard 10% over.
Yes, same procedure. The only thing that changes for me is i don't use bb for test e or eq.
-------
EQUIPOISE, WEIGHING:
I take a couple credit cards on each side of the bag and slide it to the coner wher i have a hole in the bag. All comes out and pretty easy. Tare out your beaker on the scale and add eq while on the scale for an accurate reading. Easy Peasy.
-------
ETHYL OLEATE, ALLERGY:
I find it to be a very small amount of folks that are allergic. I've only personally seen one person that had issues with EO. The vast majority of folks have a very smooth reaction to it. Further more i've never seen any proof that there are any negative affects medically. Best ug i ever used, before i brewed my own, was 100% EO. personally, i think all the negative talk about it is just regurgitation from person to person. Where's the science?
According to that, even if you take every case at being an allergic reaction and not something else, that only claims a 4% allergic reaction. This is your definition of poison?
I get that you won't change your mind, but to regurgitate that EO is poison because a very small number of people have a reaction to it is dissengenuous at best. Personally, ive seen a larger number of people have bad reactions to mct oil than ethyl oleate. I couldn't fathom calling it a poison.
Depends on the recipe. EO will help a compound go in to and stay in solution. A small amount of people have reactions to EO and should stay away from it, but we're talking just a couple percent.
I'd say more people have bad reactions to mct oil than eo. Hard to say why your getting pip from your source. Many factors involved. If you want more of a sure thing go GSO and a simple ratio of 1% ba and 18% bb. Either way just brew in small amounts in the beginning. I've seen people brew Thier whole order of raws in one sitting and fuck up.
Many an argument over EO. imo, it is a great solvent. very, very few people have a reaction to it. those that don't love it.
I've only met one person personally that doesn't tolerate eo well. I use 100% eo in all my gear. I love it. You can get a higher amount of product to hold in solution and with less pip if you tolerate it well. There's only one way to find out. Also, the carrier is very thin so you can easily use a 27g needle to pin with.
-------
ETHYL OEATE, GRADE:
Med lab supply has usp grade. Now you guys are trying to make it sound like folks are using just junk, lol. Once again I say show me anything scientific that says EO is unsafe. Pharmaceutical companies use it in injectable products and the allergic reactions are very, very minimal. Not trying to sway you guys into using. Just trying to make it known to those who are not in the know that the negative comments about EO are nothing more than false broscience.
-------
ETHYL OLEATE, IMPROVING SOLUBILITY:
Depends on the recipe. EO will help a compound go in to and stay in solution. A small amount of people have reactions to EO and should stay away from it, but we're talking just a couple percent.
I love EO. never had a problem with it melting anything inside my body nor have I heard of anyone being fucked up by EO. Before I started home brewing, the best gear I tried was 100% EO. I use 100% EO and don't have a problem with pip in any gear I make nor do I have a problem with any of my compounds crashing. Been brewing for many, many years.
I've only met one person personally that doesn't tolerate eo well. I use 100% eo in all my gear. I love it. You can get a higher amount of product to hold in solution and with less pip if you tolerate it well. There's only one way to find out. Also, the carrier is very thin so you can easily use a 27g needle to pin with.
-------
FILTERS, BOTTLE TOP FILTERS CHOICE:
500ml whatman zapcap .2um filters at med lab supply.
-------
FILTERS, BOTTLETOP VS SYRINGE:
Well, going from syringe filter to sterile sealed vial there's no process in between to contaminate your product. But then again if you are good at what your doing and take the necessary steps to maintain sterility then the point is moot.
-------
FILTERS: CAULKING GUN TO PRESS SYRINGES:
Go buy a caulking gun for like 4 bucks. A 60cc syringe will fit in there with 40 to 50ml (depending on syringe brand) and filter warm. If not you'll wish you had.
It will fucking suck... you don't have to rig anything up. Just put the filled 60cc syringe inside the gun (filter will be just outside the bottom lip of the gun) and squeeze. Nothing fancy.
With a 60cc syringe, .2um filters and a caulking gun I can fill a 10ml vial in seconds with little effort. So much easier using a syringe filter for anything under 1 or 2 hundred ml rather than setting up the pump system.
Lol, you tried to do it by hand? With I thin carrier like mct, keep it very warm (not hot) and a caulking gun it goes very fast. A fast stream. Never timed it, but probably 20 to 30 seconds a 10ml vial.
Yes, with a whatman .2um pvdf filter about 30 seconds a vial. With Medium hand pressure and at a very warm temperature it streams into the vial.
-------
FILTERS, FLUSHING:
t's all going down the same hole. In whichever order you want to do it is up to you. Just I wouldn't Add the powder first. As far as flushing the filter that too is up to you. Do you want to spend an extra few minutes and add an extra step to save a few cents? I mean, if your brewing a few ml then you may want to do it. If your brewing a few hundred then maybe not.
Yes, this is true. You can flush like 2ml through filter and get the 2ml that is trapped by replacing it with the pure oil. I do not. It's not worth my time. Depending on your carrier, whether your using a caulking gun and whether your fingers are still willing to push/squeeze.
If you were going to do that I would run BA through it instead of rubbing alcohol. I would do it both after you used it the first time and before you use it again.
-------
FILTERS, NON-STERILE:
You can run a few ml of ba through non sterile filters if you need to. Wait a bit then use. I'd discard the first few ml of oil if you do. Never heard of anyone baking afterwards, though.
-------
FILTERS: PDEF ETHYL OLEATE RESISTANCE:
You plan on using around 10% eo? Using pdef syringe filters i've done products with 100% eo and never had a problem.
-------
FILTERS, REFILTERING UGL GEAR:
man, if i thought it was necessary to refilter gear i bought i'd be buying from another source. but if i had to refilter for some reason i'd get some 50ml jugs, a 100ml beaker, 23 and 18g needles, 60cc syringe, a caulking gun and some alcohol swabs. clean the beaker very well. i use a bleach solution (mix of water and about 10% bleach) to wash it, then i wash it with a dish soap and water then rinse very well. place beaker on electric stove and let it heat the F up and dry at the same time. the 18g for drawing and injecting and 23g for venting. draw 100ml and place in the beaker and let gear heat to a very warm (not hot). draw half the gear, place filter on then syringe. add 23g to 50ml jug for venting. you'll have to start the filtering by hand because you'll only get the 60cc syringe in the caulking gun with about 48ml in it. then filter at a very warm temp. you can do the whole 100ml with one filter. now you have 2 50ml jugs of refiltered gear.
Oh, p.s.
In reference to my post you'll want sterile sealed 50ml vials.
oh, this reminds me of one more step. keep a 3ml syringe with about 2ml of oil on the side. brand or kind of oil doesn't matter. when your done disconnect the 60cc syringe from the filter and place the 3cc syringe on it and push the 2ml of extra oil into the syringe. that will push the 2 to 3ml of oil that was left in the filter into your vial. now your filter is full of the hormoneless (that sounded kind of gay) oil and you don't lose any product.
i usually don't do this step. brewing a few hundred ml at a time you usually don't care about the last few ml. but if you want to save the last few drop, lol, then this is how you'd do it.
-------
GH, HOMEBREWING:
Raw powder hgh??? Sheeeit. Dont we all wish.
-------
HEATING, HOT PLATE, DAMAGING POWDERS:
You can use a thermometer. you could affect it, but we're talking somewhere above 600f. I've been doing this for quite a while so it's kind of like muscle memory to me. I set my hot plate at a certain temp and do everything by touch and sight. I doubt my oil reaches over the desired 250f that I set as standard. When the beaker is on the hot plate you can see the oil slightly swirl around. Basically mixing itsself. I then turn off the hot plate and allow the beaker to remain on the heated plate and allow it to slowly reduce its temp. While the oil is still very warm I then filter making it easier for your product to move through the filter.
I.avoid water baths. Water and oil don't mix. There's absolutely no reason in the world to use a water bath. As far as heating, there's no reason you can't warm it. I wouldn't heat it very hot, but 200 degrees ain't gonna hurt the hormone.
Apprx 250f will not degrade your product and will make things much easier and faster. Keep it pretty warm while filtering.
Heat makes it all so much faster and easier. There's really no down side to using heat unless you go really high temps and then the product starts to degrade. But we're talking temps of over 5 - 6 hundred degrees f. If you heat at temps of about 250f your powder will disolve in minutes and you can see the oil swirling arond a bit mixing and disolving product. Let it warm to a temp where you can comfortably hold the beaker and feel it's warmth and filter at that temp for a much easier filtering process.
First off, when you heated the shit out of the one batch and got the black residue at the bottom you probably burnt some of your raws. Remember, when your raws aren't completely dissolved that means you still have powder in the mix and can be burnt. Some will say no heat, but just warm it. You should be able to comfortably pick up the beaker and it feel just a little bit warm.
As for the sludge. Shit, I don't know. Water would give a look like that but not really be sludgy. You can try filtering it, putting it back in the beaker and baking it for about 30 to 45 minutes on about 300 to 350f. Not optimal, but you may salvage your product with minor degradation.
Oh, and then filter again before bottling in vials.
I warm my tren as I'm brewing. I keep it warm as I filter. not hot. I can pick the beaker with warm product up with my hands and it will feel nicely warm, not hot. being warm help dissolve the powder and helps filter much easier and will not damage the product.
