Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Definitely agree with mass is the enemyEPO and low doses of test is prob what if anything is used, like halfway between triathlon and long distance runners gear... ie lean small but strong with fast recovery. mass is the enemy. maybe uber low dose hgh for recovery. just a wild guess though judging by how the buddies look/train... mostly long distance and sort of modified cross fit.
That’s awesome! V7-V8 is some hard boulderingio used to climb regularly at around a v7-8 level. but that was when i was 50lbs lighter. I havent climbed in years, but boy do i miss it, but i simply cant do it at anywhere near the same level now that im heavier
yeah i was lucky to have a good bouldering gym the next town over from mew that was only like 100$ for a year membership.That’s awesome! V7-V8 is some hard bouldering
Yeah at that grade it’s a puzzle for sureyeah i was lucky to have a good bouldering gym the next town over from mew that was only like 100$ for a year membership.
so i used to go climb on any of my rest days from the gym.
ended up climbing 2-4 sessions a week for a couple years. even still any of those v7-v8s would take me several sessions to work out
That sounds like a very reasonable and sensible approachI climb at about V6. I’ve been dabbling with low doses of AAS for a couple of years. In that time I’ve gone from maybe 20% body fat down to 9.5% (measured by DEXA scan). However I’m exactly the same weight now, as I’ve replaced fat with muscle. I see this as a wasted opportunity to increase my power to weight ratio.
I wish I knew at the beginning of my journey what I know now. I’ve halved my TRT dose from what it used to be and any injectables on top (apart from maybe Masteron) are pointless because they just increase mass. I suspect though that Masteron isn’t great for the connective tissue.
I think i now understand that the way to successfully use AAS without suffering weight gain is to limit them to very short infrequent training blocks where a specific weakness is worked on.
Progress will always be limited by the capacity of the finger tendons to handle the training load (I’ve learned that by repeatedly injuring my A2 pulleys), so PEDs can only help so much. The benefit is probably negligible for a climber in their 20s but I’m 50 and I climb fairly hard for my age, so it’s a little more worthwhile. The balance is very difficult to find though.
Yeah that’s exactly rightI think finger strength allows you to spend less time working out the intricacies of movement. It’s a short cut. But it also opens up more possibilities.
One thing that a combination of AAS and the correct training has really helped with is my rotator cuff. I’m super strong at shouldery moves as I’ve been able to train that without tendon integrity being such a limiting factor. My weighted pull-ups and dumbbell rows are both probably at a V11 standard but there’s many more aspects to climbing V11 than back and shoulder strength.
after a certain point gym strength doesn’t translate well to wall strength.
I think that the strength which helps you on the wall is very specific to certain muscles (infrasplinatus, teres major, flexor digitorum profundus). The issue is with the exception of possibly fingerboarding or the current trend of no-hang protocols, there’s no resistance exercise you can really do which isolates the beneficial muscles to such an extent that you don’t incur collateral hypertophy in the larger muscle groups.
I’ve been fairly focussed in my training and I’m still carrying multiple kilograms of unnecessary muscle in my pecs, delts, and lats. It’s frustrating.
I use cable machines a lot. External rotations in all planes, face pulls, lateral raises, D2 flexion, straight arm pull-downs. Then with dumbbells: prone W to I (with really light weights), finger curls, dumbbell rows. That in addition to finger boarding and climbing. Campussing is absolutely the best trainjng tool we have but for me it’s too injury prone.
Oh and my secret best ever compound exercise - pull ups on the 35° sloper on the beastmaker hangboard. It’ll hit every single muscle you need for climbing and nothing you don’t. My rhomboids and oblique muscles ache the next day so I suppose that’s the weak point in my shoulder stability chain. You can try it on the 45° sloper if you want but that’s insanely hard.
