Dirthand
Well-known Member
I was acually just sitting thinking why the fuck did i let sampei talk me into buying a fucking gallon of this miracle oil. Ha
MESO-Rx
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Sampei Brewing Journey
- Thread starter Sampei
- Start date
If it doesn't sits with you after you try it, I'll buy it off from you no problem
Dirthand
Well-known Member
I'll tell you what big dawg... if it doesn't sit well I'll gift it to ya!!!
Too bad for me, you will love it ahaha
But hey you can always be my reshipper If I have to buy from those fucker at least you will save me in custom duties etc. as it will be sent from a private individual and we can declare a low amount of value
Hey @Sampei great thread so far. I'm currently building up maly materials for my own start in brewing and I am learning a lot in your thread and @Dirthand .
I have a question for you guys and @narta about Buchner funnel filters.
I am looking into different filtration set ups and have a question on a specific type of buchner.
I am mostly interested in finding a filter I can reuse and clean without using piranha juice or other dangerous chemicals.
I found this two piece plastic one that says it is heat resistant up to 120 Celsius.
It seems that would be easy to clean compared to a single piece glass or ceramic Buchner.
Do you guys have any experience or recommendations?
I have a question for you guys and @narta about Buchner funnel filters.
I am looking into different filtration set ups and have a question on a specific type of buchner.
I am mostly interested in finding a filter I can reuse and clean without using piranha juice or other dangerous chemicals.
I found this two piece plastic one that says it is heat resistant up to 120 Celsius.
It seems that would be easy to clean compared to a single piece glass or ceramic Buchner.
Do you guys have any experience or recommendations?
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I have zero idea sorry, I don't see really the reason for something so complicated when you can just buy some bottletop filter and glass media bottle and call it a day.
Unless you are trying to brew shit load of gear and wanna save money on filters etc... it doesn't make any sense to use a setup like the one you are mentioning.
Hopefully someone can help you out
I have zero idea sorry, I don't see really the reason for something so complicated when you can just buy some bottletop filter and glass media bottle and call it a day.
Unless you are trying to brew shit load of gear and wanna save money on filters etc... it doesn't make any sense to use a setup like the one you are mentioning.
Hopefully someone can help you out
I want something that I only have to buy once and not the disposable bottle top filters if possible. My living conditions and brewing conditions are complicated in many regards so this is quite important.
VakarianSK
Member
I'll give them a call when they open this AM lol, work is slow today anyways.
Nunya
Member
Happy to connect. And if you want me to post the write up in here as well, let me know. I don’t want to junk up your thread but I can DM you what I sent and let you decide if it’s relevant.
Post it, it's beautiful information
Yes please I found it very helpfulPost it, it's beautiful information
Nunya
Member
@Sampei and @max187 thanks for the positive reinforcement
Here you go:
>>Filtration with reusable equipment (standard lab equipment):
This is a pretty straightforward setup on Amazon and pretty inexpensive: Amazon.com
You’ll want to find filter media that is appropriate, and the filter media may or may not be sterile. It usually isn’t. Personally, I doubt anybody is gonna die from something on a piece of filter paper BUT, if you’re concerned, cook the filter paper in the oven with your other lab equipment when you sterilize everything.
Here are some PTFE filter media for the above 80mm Buchner filter:
This: https://a.co/d/iKBji5i (Amazon.com)
Or: https://a.co/d/fhBG7F2 (Amazon.com)
Or: https://a.co/d/3Nc9bw9 (Amazon.com)
Filter media is designed to be a one time use; you dump the filter paper/media once you’re done filtering.
Typically, in a lab, you KEEP the filtrate that accumulates on the paper, and so what you’d do would be to set up your apparatus, make sure that it doesn’t tip over, as it’s top heavy, and then you’d put the filter media in and wet it down with a liquid that’s the same as the liquid you’re trying to filter out. So, let’s say you’ve got a beaker of water + salt and you want to filter out the salt. You’d put the filter media in, wet it with water, proceed to filter, and then take out the filter media with the salt on it and chuck the water.
In this use case, you want to TOSS the paper and any filtrate that accumulates on it, and KEEP the oil. So if you REALLY wanted to be quantitative this is what you’d do:
- Buy two of the above set up and set aside the extra buchner funnel as a spare.
- Get everything set up, put your buchner funnel over an Erlenmeyer flask.
- Put the filter paper/media in the funnel, and wet it down with a bit of PURE oil, ideally already filtered. This is just to get the filter media stuck down to the buchner funnel. It shouldn’t take much.
- Turn on the vacuum pump and suck the oil through to make sure you’ve got the filter media saturated, and any oil dripped through is collected in the flask below.
- REMOVE the flask that has a bit of pure oil in it, and replace it with the second cleaned/sterilized flask.
- Proceed to filter your solution.
You’d do this because any oil that comes through as part of the initial process will dilute the concentration of the solution (gear) you’re wanting to actually filter.
Personally, I wouldn’t likely bother with all that, and would simply carefully wet the filter media with the SOLUTION, knowing a few drops of unfiltered oil may get under the filter media and in to the flask below. But if every step to that point has been pretty careful, you’re pretty unlikely to have an issue. Again, depends on how quantitative you want to be with this. If you’re challenging yourself to make a concentration that is EXACTLY 100mg/ml for example, then you will want to make sure no extra oil gets in to your flask, not even a drop, because then it’ll change things. But really, a few drops will make your gear 98mg/mL instead of 100mg/mL, if that makes sense. So again, you may not care, especially if you test the final product.
Not sure if this is what you’re after, and hopefully it helps. I used to be a _______ teacher (redacted), for what it's worth
Added: additionally, if you don’t want to put filter media in the oven, you could rinse with isopropyl alcohol, or hydrogen peroxide, and let dry. That won’t sterilize, but it will disinfect/sanitize. You can really geek out on perfection at every step to your liking, but the early steps are the most important steps (make sure both solute and solvent are as pure as possible to begin with, and all glassware is disinfected/sanitized or sterilized, depending on your risk tolerance).
Here you go:
>>Filtration with reusable equipment (standard lab equipment):
This is a pretty straightforward setup on Amazon and pretty inexpensive: Amazon.com
You’ll want to find filter media that is appropriate, and the filter media may or may not be sterile. It usually isn’t. Personally, I doubt anybody is gonna die from something on a piece of filter paper BUT, if you’re concerned, cook the filter paper in the oven with your other lab equipment when you sterilize everything.
Here are some PTFE filter media for the above 80mm Buchner filter:
This: https://a.co/d/iKBji5i (Amazon.com)
Or: https://a.co/d/fhBG7F2 (Amazon.com)
Or: https://a.co/d/3Nc9bw9 (Amazon.com)
Filter media is designed to be a one time use; you dump the filter paper/media once you’re done filtering.
Typically, in a lab, you KEEP the filtrate that accumulates on the paper, and so what you’d do would be to set up your apparatus, make sure that it doesn’t tip over, as it’s top heavy, and then you’d put the filter media in and wet it down with a liquid that’s the same as the liquid you’re trying to filter out. So, let’s say you’ve got a beaker of water + salt and you want to filter out the salt. You’d put the filter media in, wet it with water, proceed to filter, and then take out the filter media with the salt on it and chuck the water.
In this use case, you want to TOSS the paper and any filtrate that accumulates on it, and KEEP the oil. So if you REALLY wanted to be quantitative this is what you’d do:
- Buy two of the above set up and set aside the extra buchner funnel as a spare.
- Get everything set up, put your buchner funnel over an Erlenmeyer flask.
- Put the filter paper/media in the funnel, and wet it down with a bit of PURE oil, ideally already filtered. This is just to get the filter media stuck down to the buchner funnel. It shouldn’t take much.
- Turn on the vacuum pump and suck the oil through to make sure you’ve got the filter media saturated, and any oil dripped through is collected in the flask below.
- REMOVE the flask that has a bit of pure oil in it, and replace it with the second cleaned/sterilized flask.
- Proceed to filter your solution.
You’d do this because any oil that comes through as part of the initial process will dilute the concentration of the solution (gear) you’re wanting to actually filter.
Personally, I wouldn’t likely bother with all that, and would simply carefully wet the filter media with the SOLUTION, knowing a few drops of unfiltered oil may get under the filter media and in to the flask below. But if every step to that point has been pretty careful, you’re pretty unlikely to have an issue. Again, depends on how quantitative you want to be with this. If you’re challenging yourself to make a concentration that is EXACTLY 100mg/ml for example, then you will want to make sure no extra oil gets in to your flask, not even a drop, because then it’ll change things. But really, a few drops will make your gear 98mg/mL instead of 100mg/mL, if that makes sense. So again, you may not care, especially if you test the final product.
Not sure if this is what you’re after, and hopefully it helps. I used to be a _______ teacher (redacted), for what it's worth
Added: additionally, if you don’t want to put filter media in the oven, you could rinse with isopropyl alcohol, or hydrogen peroxide, and let dry. That won’t sterilize, but it will disinfect/sanitize. You can really geek out on perfection at every step to your liking, but the early steps are the most important steps (make sure both solute and solvent are as pure as possible to begin with, and all glassware is disinfected/sanitized or sterilized, depending on your risk tolerance).
Nunya
Member
Follow up:
- Do you need a special brush to clean the buchner funnel?
Very unlikely, the holes are usually large enough you could stick a wire through; they’re not microscopic like fritted glass is. You could easily just toss it in the dishwasher.
I also doubt the % of isopropyl matters that much because again, it’s a secondary step, and really what it will do is disinfect what you may have missed before, AND, more importantly, it’ll get rid of any residual water, which you don’t want in your solution.
General cleaning:
Water and dish detergent, acetone, water, isopropyl alcohol, let it dry. Sterilize and bag up if you have time, your future self will thank you Acetone is probably overkill, just get the oil off with soap and water then rinse with isopropyl alcohol.
Basically, put it in your dishwasher and get all the oil off, then rinse with acetone, then water, then isopropyl alcohol to chase out any residual water.
- Do you need a special brush to clean the buchner funnel?
Very unlikely, the holes are usually large enough you could stick a wire through; they’re not microscopic like fritted glass is. You could easily just toss it in the dishwasher.
I also doubt the % of isopropyl matters that much because again, it’s a secondary step, and really what it will do is disinfect what you may have missed before, AND, more importantly, it’ll get rid of any residual water, which you don’t want in your solution.
General cleaning:
Water and dish detergent, acetone, water, isopropyl alcohol, let it dry. Sterilize and bag up if you have time, your future self will thank you
Acetone is probably overkill, just get the oil off with soap and water then rinse with isopropyl alcohol. Basically, put it in your dishwasher and get all the oil off, then rinse with acetone, then water, then isopropyl alcohol to chase out any residual water.
YYeah bro
Yeah bro keep in mind everybody is different. Can Primo be bruised at 200mg/ml and have no PIP? It depends on who's taking it and that's the honest truth. It's just like test propionate bro. Can it be made at 200 mg/ml? Yes but 30% of the population already can't handle 100 mg/ml, so why would we make it at 200mg/ml? Don't get me wrong, I'm all for high concentrations. I will make a deca and EQ at 700mg/ml, but certain compounds, depending on who's taking it will/can cause pip.I just injected Primo 300 1ml left glute and Test D 500 1ml right glute.
Tomorrow morning we will know if it hurts ahaha
or if I end up in the hospital few days later.
In my opinion the Primo 300 will not hurt at all or not much, I believe the only reason Primo is brewed low mg it's because it would be too expensive one vial of primo 300. No one almost will buy it. It's easier to sell 2 vial at 60$ compared to one at 100-120$.
There are a lot of myth around primo, I mean if you read online before 202x most of the ppl are saying: primo 200 hurts like a mofo, I never brew primo higher than 100mg, 150mg already sting a lot, 200mg will cripple you bla bla bla.
Now we all know 200mg is perfectly doable and pipless (at least for me).
So maybe it's all myth that Primo can't be brewed in higher concentration? We will find out
Why don’t sources brew with this stuffIt's more or less MCT with a different ratio and it's a lot less viscous, like half of MCT, flows like water and it works as a solvent too so you can use a lot less BB if you want if you use mig840.
Some ppl don't react well to it tho, it's rare but it happens.
I still have to find out if it does give any systemic inflammation like EO, I was doing a test injecting only mig840 and testing my CRP but I got a flu just the same day I draw blood after having injected for 5 days the mig840 and it fucked up my experiment
Will do another one soon.
But Srsly if it doesn't increase CRP it's a game changer, it's so easy to inject that I was filling 2ml syringe drawing with a 27G needle
Expensive, harder to source, not everyone react well to it.
Some sources that I used in the past had some mig840 product.
I would like to try it. I wonder if any US sources would carry that… probably not worth it if not someone already would
VakarianSK
Member
Wanted to give an update on getting the COA for mig 840 from medlabgear.com. I called over 10 times at various hours and even texted but got no response. Terrible customer support/service lol.
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