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G-1630 600 ml Corning Pyrex Beaker, spout.

Found this on eBay. It says it can handle up to 490 C. Any thoughts?
 
Same here, amazon only had 20's so that's what I have. They are really long and hard to work with honestly. I'll get some 10's ASAP. Also, my borosilicate pos beaker cracked after everything was done and I started to clean it. It cooled slowly on its own before I did anything to it. I got my beakers on amazon and I'm guessing they just suck b/c I didn't use much heat. Can anyone shoot me a link to some good beakers?
here you go mate, found some for ya:

What you want to look for is pyrex, borrosiliccate glass.
pyrex material:
Pyrex is suitable for use from -192°C to +500°C
This makes it an ideal choice for lab glassware which will be directly heated. Soda-Lime glass is less suitable for direct heating, so choose Pyrex where possible if you will be applying heat.

Beakers, test tubes and http://www.camlab.co.uk/flask-round-base-short-neck-p18856.aspx that are made from Pyrex glass are suitable for direct heating by hotplate, heating mantle or bunsen burner.

Remember that heating and cooling should always be slow and steady – Pyrex can withstand huge temperature changes, but if they are too sudden it may still crack due to thermal shock.
 
here you go mate, found some for ya:

What you want to look for is pyrex, borrosiliccate glass.
pyrex material:
Pyrex is suitable for use from -192°C to +500°C
This makes it an ideal choice for lab glassware which will be directly heated. Soda-Lime glass is less suitable for direct heating, so choose Pyrex where possible if you will be applying heat.

Beakers, test tubes and http://www.camlab.co.uk/flask-round-base-short-neck-p18856.aspx that are made from Pyrex glass are suitable for direct heating by hotplate, heating mantle or bunsen burner.

Remember that heating and cooling should always be slow and steady – Pyrex can withstand huge temperature changes, but if they are too sudden it may still crack due to thermal shock.
Thanks man, gonna order now.
 
IMAG0007.jpg I brewed this Tren E 200 today for the first time. The one with the label is from a ugl and they claimed that it was brewed without heat. I had to heat mine little to get it to mix. My question is why is mine so much lighter?
 
How big is it?
Its 36l capacity,
baking plate is size of: 39.5x34cm

Size of oven heigh, width, depth:
33x52x44cm

Top and bottom heating element, each 650w

Turbo function for steady flow of air

Top and bottom heating element includes fan

Temp rage : 104f - 500f
 
Its 36l capacity,
baking plate is size of: 39.5x34cm

Size of oven heigh, width, depth:
33x52x44cm

Top and bottom heating element, each 650w

Turbo function for steady flow of air

Top and bottom heating element includes fan

Temp rage : 104f - 500f
Seems like it could do quite a few vials at once....got a link?
 
Seems like it could do quite a few vials at once....got a link?
I truly hope i could stuff whole beaker and or media bottle inside as well, when i would take out rack and leave just plate at bottom, it could be possible, maybe laying media bottle down instead leaving it standing.

Unfortunately its just for europe market for specific country, not available in english shop.
I could possibly find something similar for ya, u us based?
 
I truly hope i could stuff whole beaker and or media bottle inside as well, when i would take out rack and leave just plate at bottom, it could be possible, maybe laying media bottle down instead leaving it standing.

Unfortunately its just for europe market for specific country, not available in english shop.
I could possibly find something similar for ya, u us based?
I am. But no worries, bro. I will keep shopping around.
 
I am. But no worries, bro. I will keep shopping around.
Im firmly convinced that this kind of oven dedicated only to sterilizing procedure, no cooking, would be superior to classic big oven which is used for everything at home.
Happy hunting
 
Do you know if there are some special bags you can use to keep ur tools sterile as long as they are in that bag? Something similar thats used in autoclave
There has to be, but once you open the bag, no longer sterile without a sterile room.
 
Even without heat?

Sure, it doesn't need to be heated to oxidize.

I really don't believe that heat is the biggest factor with tren's color as you read about on forums. I've also read many times that darker=better tren. I've never read any kind of convincing evidence on either of these points, especially the latter. The best explanation I've seen pointed towards exposure to the air as the biggest factor with tren's final color... It's like that UGL tren is the apple halve that sat out a little too long. :)

Regardless, tren's color doesn't seem to make much of a difference at the end of the day. Unless it's pink... That's kinda gay.
 
Sure, it doesn't need to be heated to oxidize.

I really don't believe that heat is the biggest factor with tren's color as you read about on forums. I've also read many times that darker=better tren. I've never read any kind of convincing evidence on either of these points, especially the latter. The best explanation I've seen pointed towards exposure to the air as the biggest factor with tren's final color... It's like that UGL tren is the apple halve that sat out a little too long. :)

Regardless, tren's color doesn't seem to make much of a difference at the end of the day. Unless it's pink... That's kinda gay.
LOL thanks @Eman. I just wanted to make sure it looked ok since it was my first time. The raw powder looked sparkly like it was made by elves or something, kinda cool. It also wasn't as yellow as the Tren A powder so like I said, I just wanted to make sure it seemed right to you guys.
 
Regardless, tren's color doesn't seem to make much of a difference at the end of the day.
Yeah , I used to think that dark tren was the "fire tren" as they say . Until the first time I made fina's and realized people were full crap , and completely talking out of their ass's lol ...

You're dead on though , in my experience with ug raw tren , heat has very little to do with the final color . Some batches turn dark immediately with no heat whatsoever, and other batches keep a nice yellow color even at pretty modest heat . Ive tried to oxidize light colored tren with heat just messing around experimenting a bit , and its definitely possible but its MUCH harder than people make it sound . It took some pretty serious heat and time to change the color of my tren (in mct at least) ...
 
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