After doing some research to understand how to filter i decided that i would like to help creating a fast guide,
All the requirements i was able to find them on Amazon France ( as i live in EU)
So i hope it can help
If you’ve got oil that looks "crashed" (crystals at the bottom) or you're worried about dust and bacteria in gear from overseas, you can filter it yourself at home. This is a simple "vial-to-vial" method for small amounts (like two 10mL vials).
1. The Shopping List (Minimal Equipment)
• Syringes: 20mL Luer-lock syringes are best. They give you more control over the pressure so you don't burst the filter.
• Syringe Filters: You need 0.22 micron (µm) filters. This is the specific size required to remove bacteria and keep the oil sterile.
• Needles:
• 18g for drawing the oil out of the old vial.
• 22g or 23g to attach to the filter for the new vial.
• 25g or 27g to use as a "vent" needle.
• Alcohol Wipes: 70% Isopropyl alcohol.
• New Sterile Vials: To hold your clean gear.
2. Choosing the Right Filter Membrane
Don't just buy any filter. You need one that won't melt from the solvents (BA/BB) or "soak up" your hormones.
• PVDF: The most popular choice. It has low protein binding (so you don't lose gear in the membrane) and fast flow rates.
• PTFE: The "gold standard" for chemical resistance. It is basically indestructible against solvents but can be a bit slower to push through.
• Avoid Nylon if possible, as it can sometimes bind to the product and reduce potency.
3. Step-by-Step Process
1. Prep the Oil: If your gear is crashed (has crystals), put the vial in a warm water bath until it's clear. Warming the oil also makes it much easier to push through the filter.
2. Clean Everything: Wipe the tops of all vials (old and new) with alcohol.
3. Draw: Use the 18g needle to draw all the oil from your old vials into one 20mL syringe.
4. Assemble: Remove the 18g needle. Twist the 0.22µm filter onto the syringe, then twist a fresh 22g needle onto the end of the filter.
5. Vent the New Vial: Stick a small 25g needle into the top of the new sterile vial. This lets air escape so the pressure doesn't build up and stop the flow.
6. Filter: Insert your filter needle into the new vial. Push the plunger slowly and steadily. If it gets too hard to push, stop and let it rest—don't force it, or you might rupture the membrane.
7. Finish: Once the oil is through, you're done. Throw the filter and needles away—they are single-use only.
4. Pro Tips for Success
• Warmth is your friend: If the oil is cold, it will be like pushing glue through a straw. Aim for "warm to the touch".
• Watch for "Pops": If the pressure suddenly disappears and the oil flows fast, the filter has burst. You must start over with a new filter and re-filter that vial.
• Slow Down: It should take a few minutes to filter 10-20mL. If you try to do it in 10 seconds, you'll break the equipment.
All the requirements i was able to find them on Amazon France ( as i live in EU)
So i hope it can help
If you’ve got oil that looks "crashed" (crystals at the bottom) or you're worried about dust and bacteria in gear from overseas, you can filter it yourself at home. This is a simple "vial-to-vial" method for small amounts (like two 10mL vials).
1. The Shopping List (Minimal Equipment)
• Syringes: 20mL Luer-lock syringes are best. They give you more control over the pressure so you don't burst the filter.
• Syringe Filters: You need 0.22 micron (µm) filters. This is the specific size required to remove bacteria and keep the oil sterile.
• Needles:
• 18g for drawing the oil out of the old vial.
• 22g or 23g to attach to the filter for the new vial.
• 25g or 27g to use as a "vent" needle.
• Alcohol Wipes: 70% Isopropyl alcohol.
• New Sterile Vials: To hold your clean gear.
2. Choosing the Right Filter Membrane
Don't just buy any filter. You need one that won't melt from the solvents (BA/BB) or "soak up" your hormones.
• PVDF: The most popular choice. It has low protein binding (so you don't lose gear in the membrane) and fast flow rates.
• PTFE: The "gold standard" for chemical resistance. It is basically indestructible against solvents but can be a bit slower to push through.
• Avoid Nylon if possible, as it can sometimes bind to the product and reduce potency.
3. Step-by-Step Process
1. Prep the Oil: If your gear is crashed (has crystals), put the vial in a warm water bath until it's clear. Warming the oil also makes it much easier to push through the filter.
2. Clean Everything: Wipe the tops of all vials (old and new) with alcohol.
3. Draw: Use the 18g needle to draw all the oil from your old vials into one 20mL syringe.
4. Assemble: Remove the 18g needle. Twist the 0.22µm filter onto the syringe, then twist a fresh 22g needle onto the end of the filter.
5. Vent the New Vial: Stick a small 25g needle into the top of the new sterile vial. This lets air escape so the pressure doesn't build up and stop the flow.
6. Filter: Insert your filter needle into the new vial. Push the plunger slowly and steadily. If it gets too hard to push, stop and let it rest—don't force it, or you might rupture the membrane.
7. Finish: Once the oil is through, you're done. Throw the filter and needles away—they are single-use only.
4. Pro Tips for Success
• Warmth is your friend: If the oil is cold, it will be like pushing glue through a straw. Aim for "warm to the touch".
• Watch for "Pops": If the pressure suddenly disappears and the oil flows fast, the filter has burst. You must start over with a new filter and re-filter that vial.
• Slow Down: It should take a few minutes to filter 10-20mL. If you try to do it in 10 seconds, you'll break the equipment.
